Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
at the

ANTIQUE CONNECTION MALL
and on the internet since 1996
12815 Central NE, Albuquerque, New Mexico, 87123  USA
~
Jane Haley Clarke, owner
Copyright 1994-2017 All rights Reserv
ed ©

 


Welcome to the beauty, history and art that is vintage jewelry. We buy and sell vintage rhinestone, costume, designer, bakelite and antique Georgian & Victorian jewelry, purses and accessories.
To be alerted when NEW ITEMS are added to the site, please e-mail jane@morninggloryantiques.com and we will be glad to add you to the contact list.
All jewelry is in excellent vintage condition unless specified otherwise.  All items are subject to prior sale.
We work constantly to offer extensive jewelry research, pictures and information in our reference, " Jewel Chat " and gallery " Morning Glory Collects ". 
We share our reference material free of charge and work hard to make it accurate, but as with any research, mistakes can be made. We are not responsible for the use you make of the information here or the honest mistakes that may occur from time to time.
We do not offer identification, valuation or appraisal services. 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. Most of these items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE
.

© 1994-2017 All Rights Reserved

 


Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry presents
~

JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

 

Unsigned HASKELL by Frank Hess
from the 1930's and 1940's

 


HASKELL ads from the 1940's. Water color artist Larry Austin did these to be used as advertising for Haskell jewelry, and they show many of the wonderful unsigned pieces from the early days of Miriam Haskell Jewelry .

 


      I sign my name "Jane H. Clarke", and was asked several years ago if the "H" stood for "Haskell" because I am known a lover of Haskell jewelry. (It doesn't... it stands for Haley, my maiden name.) Haskell pieces are diminutive treasures with their artistic designs, beautiful hand work and rainbow of colors.

      It has been a delight to do the research for this article. I have had the pleasure of sharing pictures from my own collection, and Cathy Gordon and Mary Ann Legan were kind enough to share many fabulous pictures from their collections, as well as their comments. Without them, this article would not have been possible. 

     Camela "Millie" Petronzio, Larry Vrba and Bertl Groll all gave us the benefit of their years of experience with Haskell Jewelry. We cannot thank them enough for their insights.

     Haskell is the attributed maker for many of these pieces, but none are signed. Attributing unsigned jewelry is often difficult, so where possible I have shown old Haskell advertisements and/or other documentation. While beads and findings may be used as clues, they are not definitive. (An example of why can be seen in the comparison of  a Haskell and an Amourelle necklace at the end of this article).

Note: These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.  Jewelry that is available for sale can be accessed at the links at the bottom of the page.
 

 

 
      MIRIAM HASKELL
... the name alone conjures up images of tiny faux pearls, glass beads and rose montees fashioned into tapestries of dazzling jewelry. During the early days of her jewelry making in the 1930's and 1940's, many pieces were unsigned. Now the hunt for them is inspired by her wonderful sense of design, her intricate craftsmanship and the mystery of what IS and what is NOT Haskell.

Some pieces we will never be able to identify positively... the attribution of unsigned jewelry is always chancy... but we would like to share with you what we have deduced, and solicit your input, too. 

 

 

   HASKELL Hess early unsigned aqua faceted crystal beaded dress clip and bracelet. This has hundreds of tiny aqua transparent glass beads that wrap around the dress clip and the wire mesh bracelet. On the back, the perforated clear plastic support and metal clip are typical of the World War II to 1950's era.   View    View    View    #H19738  

 HASKELL Original watercolor written in  pencil on the back  #667

  Advertisement illustrates the same beads used in the clip shown in the photo to the right, center clip.    HASKELL CLIP    #H19736

CLIPS with aqua glass beads and gold tone metal leaves with flower-cup findings hold aqua glass beads in different sizes in each of the three clip  Back center  HASKELL CLIP    
#H19736


      Notice how all these pieces are finished. The use of different sizes of glass beads, the finishing of each string of beads with a tiny seed bead, and style of the gold tone findings are all clues to the maker. Haskell made dress clips in the 1930's and 1940's . Necklaces, bracelets and earrings were made to match these dress clips, but now they seem even more difficult to find than the dress clips. 

  

 

HASKELL CLIP   View    View    View      #H19937

HASKELL early Hess dress clip in baby blue glass beads and poured glass leaves, 4". See an ad for this piece in Cera's "Jewels of Miriam Haskell" page 21.   Back   #H24298

The Jewels of Miriam Haskell
page 21

CLIP   Back

Pastel blue "moonstone" glass beads 2-7/8" dress clip highlighted with rhinestones and roundelles... what a combination! Again, note the tiny seed beads at the tip of each strand.

This lush dress clip looks like a fantasy sky-blue grape cluster. These beads and pressed glass leaves are seen in later Haskell creations and demonstrate the fact that Haskell sometimes bought findings and beads in large lots and used them over a long period of time, which can make dating difficult. 

The advertisement for this dress clip and the matching bracelet is on page 21 of Deanna Cera's The Jewels of Miriam Haskell, and shown above. It is dated 1937 and attributed to Frank Hess.   #H19702

This snowy white cascade of small-to-larger glass beads suspended from bakelite leaves is finished off with a tiny bead at each tip. This is the kind of detailing that makes Haskell so artistically desirable.  #H19701


Millie says although the shape of the logo tag is not always a definitive method of dating, in general the horseshoe shaped mark was used in the late 1940's through the 1960's. The more common oval shaped mark was used from then to the present. 

Old Haskell advertisements are a way of documenting unsigned pieces. Most of them, as you can see by the ones shown in this article, were actual pictures of real jewelry designs, not just generalizations.

 

French earring clip circa 1940s

Flat back earring clip circa 1940s and 50s

Screw back earring clip circa 1960s

   Contemporary earring clip back circa 1980s on.

   In the 1940's the switch was made to the "French clip", the thinner wire clip back we see on many older Haskell earrings.

The "flat back clip", the clip back style used by many costume jewelers even today, was used first in the earlier years, usually due to the heavier weight of the earrings.  

   In the 1950's, as a result of complaints that the other style was too uncomfortable, Haskell changed to the use of the "screw back-clip" earrings.

 This is the earrings back most commonly used in Haskell jewelry today.


According to Millie Petronzio, another clue for dating is the style of earring back. The "flat back clip", the clip back style used by many costume jewelers even today, was used first in the earlier years, usually due to the heavier weight of the earrings. 

In the late 1940's the switch was made to the "French clip", the thinner wire clip back we see on many older Haskell earrings.  

In the 1950's, as a result of complaints that the other style was too uncomfortable, Haskell changed to the use of the "screw back-clip" earrings.  

In about 1980, they returned to the use of flat back clip earrings. 

 

 

CLIP   Back

The Jewels of Miriam Haskell
page 79

Original watercolor with foil "Miriam Haskell" sticker, 8" by 10", signed in  pencil on the back "Austin" and numbered #1259.

   HASKELL CLIP early unsigned dress clip in amber-colored glass beads and faux pearls.     Back    #H19737


The green glass beads and faux pearls dress clip is lovely, and on page 79 of  Deanna Farneti Cera's The Jewels of Miriam Haskell you can see the matching necklace and bracelet set, designer Frank Hess circa 1940.

 

 

Haskell early unsigned 3-1/2" cranberry glass beads and clear rhinestones dress clip, typical Haskell findings and finish work.  View    View    View  #H19938

Haskell yellow glass bead 3-1/3" dress clip. #H19942  

Haskell early unsigned maroon glass beads dress clip 3" long.   View     #H19943


These sets use a gold tone metal floral motif in the findings. Note the similarity of the beads and findings of the clips on the left and right to this parure by Frank Hess from the 2nd half of the 1930s. From Cera, The Jewels of Miriam Haskell, Page 87

"The use of clips not just as a lapel ornament but also as the central feature of a necklace was very common during the years between the two wars." From Cera, The Jewels of Miriam Haskell, p. 25.  Both Bertl and Millie say there were far more dress clips made than fur clips.

There were five fashion seasons every year, with collections made for each season. There could be ten to twelve lines in each collection, with multiple necklaces, bracelets, brooches, dress clips and earrings for each line. Colors and style changed seasonally, just as they do today.

 

 

 

The Jewels of Miriam Haskell, Page 76

HASKELL blue and yellow beads, seed beads and green glass leaves clip.    Back

HASKELL Clip  Persimmon slightly flattened glass beads, enameled metal leaves (seen in many different Haskell pieces) and large brass flowers adorn this fur clip. You can also view the matching necklace and wrap bracelet, which was purchased in Paris in the 1930s.   Back   Necklace    Back   Bracelet

HASKELL Clip with the slightly flattened glass beads and painted metal leaves.    View    View   #H19523

On page 76 of Deanna Farneti Cera's The Jewels of Miriam Haskell are photographs of two dress clips in the same style as the beautiful blue example shown above. One is done in black beads and the other in yellow and white, with both attributed to designer Frank Hess, circa 1938. Cathy Gordon has a necklace in this same style, VIEW HERE.

Interestingly enough, however, the pressed glass leaves from Cera’s pictures look very different from the ones shown here on the blue clip. Note, though, that the back of the blue clip shows atypical Haskell-style metal clip and clear plastic mounting circle.

The matching necklace is interesting because it has a non-detachable clip on the center element. The woman of style could clip the necklace in an asymmetrical fashion if desired. Note the filigree gold tone floret and the slightly flattened shaped glass beads, both of which are typical Haskell elements.
 

 

HASKELL early unsigned Frank Hess design from the 1940's. This dress clip of green glass beads is 3-3/4" long.   View    #H19699

   HASKELL early unsigned dress clips with poured glass leaves and citrus-colored glass beads. (These were purchased directly from Haskell Jewels' collection of early pieces.)     View    #H19561

   HASKELL early unsigned dress clip with gold tone filigree backing, aqua glass beads and green enameled leaves. These same enameled leaves are seen in later years in some of Bob Clark's designs.    View    View    #H19521

 

On the right is an early Haskell unsigned necklace and bracelet set with aqua glass beads and clear rhinestones.

On the left, the matching lariat necklace/clips combination which is also shown in the Larry Austin advertising art work, far left..

   Larry Austin art work is a wonderful way to identify Hess Haskell unsigned jewelry.

   HASKELL early unsigned aqua glass beads wrap necklace with rhinestone pave leaves, 21" with 2" dress clips.  View   View   #H23378

 

HASKELL aqua glass beads and clear rhinestone leaves parure including the original Larry Austin art work that illustrates it, seen HERE.

 

CLIP    Back

CLIP gold tone clip with green glass beads, 2-1/2".   View   #Y25126

 HASKELL original gouache art work by Larry Austin. Advertising Miriam Haskell jewelry, a bracelet and dress clip with heart-shaped glass beads and pressed glass leaves, numbered "#82" in pen on the back, 8" by 10".       #H31845

Wrap necklace/clips    View    View    View    #H19486
HASKELL CLIP    Back    #H19703

   HASKELL early unsigned blue faceted glass crystal beads cascade from this 4-1/4" dress clip with enameled connecting links. The faceted beads are very high in quality. The clip back is different, but many of the design elements are Haskell-like, and Bertl Groll identified this as a Haskell piece.   View    View    View    View   #H19939   

   Green marble-like beads are set into gold tone cups in this design. This clip has some of  the characteristic Haskell materials (beads, center "flower," etched brass) but Bertyl says this it is NOT Haskell.

   Larry Austin art work is a wonderful way to identify Hess Haskell unsigned jewelry.

   The matching necklace is a lariat style, with clips on each end, designed by Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell.

 

  

  

    Larry Austin watercolor used as an advertisement for the set shown here at right.   View
 HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell bracelet and clip/necklace of pastel blue glass leaves and beads, marked in pencil on the back "930A" and "left", 8" x 10".  #H27268

   HASKELL early Hess unsigned dress clips and coil bracelet made of baby blue glass beads and poured glass leaves.  View   #H16620

  HASKELL early Hess dress clip in baby blue glass beads and poured glass leaves, 4".    Back   #H24298
    HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell pink glass beads and leaves bracelet and clip, foil "Miriam Haskell" sticker, 8" by 10",  written in  pencil on the back  #615.   #H24366

 

    HASKELL  Attributed to designer Frank Hess, the necklace, bracelet and clips date to about 1940.  View   View   View   View   View   View    #H12331

   On pages 84-85 of Deanna Farneti Cera's The Jewels of Miriam Haskell are photographs of this water color drawing by Larry Austin, used as an advertisement,.

 HASKELL transitional art glass and seed beads and enameling in dainty pink and blue. Some of these transitional pieces are signed and some are not.    View   View   View   View    View     #H8872

 

HASKELL early Hess unsigned dress clip.  #H18844 

  HASKELL 26" lariat necklace with 2" clips at each end, 15" necklace and 3-3/4" fur clip.  View    View    View    View    View    #H19404

   HASKELL early unsigned purple, green and pink beaded 3" dress clip with silver tone leaves.   View   #H21831  


Pieces matching the pink clip on the left and the necklace in the middle are shown on page 73 of Deanna Farneti Cera's "The Jewels of Miriam Haskell", designed by Frank Hess circa 1939.
   The clip is also shown on the bottom right of the cover of her book. 

  

 

HASKELL pierced back pin on a wooden beads pin circa 1945.    View   View   View   #H31323  

Pressed glass leaves on a wooden beads pin circa 1945.

HASKELL push clasp on a artificial pearls and rose montee pendant on black velvet neck band, 14-1/2" with 2-1/4" front drop, catch patent #3427691, circa 1969.  View   View   #H51089

 

   

   HASKELL Hess chartreuse, burnt sienna and tan glass beads and gold tone leaves expansion bracelet, 3-1/4" front, and matching clip.     #H26051

  HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell bracelet and clip, numbered "815" on back in pencil, 8" by 10".  View   #H26053

   HASKELL early unsigned Frank Hess design from the 1940's. This 4" dress clip is made up of chartreuse, coral and tan glass beads.   View    #H23939 
And this HASKELL is a brooch, not a clip.  View #H21112

 

   HASKELL early Hess wooden beads and glass seed beads coil bracelet, WWII era.    #H22088

  View showing the woven covered coil construction of the bracelet. Closer views of beads.  View   View

   HASKELL Hess early unsigned dress clip with wood florets and green glass beads, 3".   View   #H26700

 

     HASKELL wooden beaded 3" long pin. Clips and pins in this series came in various colors and designs, circa 1935-40. (Seen in Christie Romero's "Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Ed, page 195.)   View   #H19700

    HASKELL early unsigned multi-colored glass opaque beads and painted metal leaves bracelet, 6-1/2".  View   View   #H24186

    HASKELL early unsigned wooden beads "pinecones" pin, circa 1935-40, 3-1/2". (Seen in Christie Romero's "Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Ed, page 195.)   View  View    #H19832

 

HASKELL original gouache art work, probably by Larry Austin. Advertising a Miriam Haskell stick coral coil bracelet and clip, numbered #1067 on the back, 8" by 10".   #H31940

 HASKELL early unsigned red woven fabric jewelry: bracelet and two sets of dress clips.   View   View   #H19820

CLIPS      Back

 

This fabulous set comprised of a bracelet and two dress clips made of red bead clusters attached to silk cord, and two beaded clips. Similar pieces can be seen in Cera on pages 32 and 70, and in Haskell ads from the time. 

Two Chinese red dress clips with carved glass beads, brass flowers and ornate, dangling brass spheres, Haskell looking but not Haskell.  

 
"Political events also influenced designers. Out of sympathy for the Chinese and Greek people who were fighting Japan and Italy…they turned to those antique cultures for inspiration." Cera, The Jewels of Miriam Haskell, p 29.

 

 

   HASKELL early unsigned expansion bracelet and pair of matching dress clips.   #H22609

 HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell white beads bracelet and clip, "right" penciled on back, 8" x 10".   #H27269

 HASKELL early unsigned orange-red and black pin with glass beads center, circa 1940, 3-1/3".   View   #H27221

 

Clip   Back

   HASKELL "lamp shade" clip. This style of Haskell came in both a clip and a pin back

This style is sometimes called a "lampshade clip".   
CLIP    Back

 
"Typical of the pieces designed by Frank Hess and produced during the war are the dangling clips with a minimum amount of metal stampings and non-traditional ornaments on a base of transparent plastic, which has become yellow with age." Cera, The Jewels of Miriam Haskell, p 31.

All three of these are what Cathy Gordon calls "lampshade clips", and they demonstrate the use of alternative materials when white metal was in short supply during the years of World War II. 

It certainly appears, after looking at so many of these clip backs, that there is a trend.  We already knew that the plastic backs were used during the war years, but we've noticed several different clips being used also.  Some are inexpensive and others are more like what we consider the "standard" clip which is of a much better construction.  Could the inexpensive clips have come later as more metal was needed for the war effort?  The "lampshades" all have the inexpensive clip and are made out of plastic as well.  In fact the top pieces (the brass flowers with beads) are a very thin lightweight metal.
 

 

   HASKELL early unsigned coil bracelet circa 1940. Blue glass beads and artificial pearls backed by layered gold tone textured leaves. (Purchased directly from Haskell Jewels' collection of early Frank Hess pieces.)    View    View   #H19193

   HASKELL early unsigned coil bracelet circa 1940. Pastel green opaque glass beads, artificial pearls and three-dimensional gold tone flowers and leaves. (Purchased directly from Haskell Jewels' collection of early Frank Hess pieces.)   View   #H19581

   HASKELL early unsigned coil bracelet circa 1940. Pastel pink and purple glass flowers, artificial pearlized leaves and rhinestones. (Purchased directly from Haskell Jewels' collection of early Frank Hess pieces.)   View    #H19583

 

   HASKELL lush unsigned necklace with white glass beads and green glass leaves has the same construction as the yellow set beside it.  Necklace

   HASKELL classic style is shown in this brilliant yellow clip and bracelet—differing sizes of beads and delicate paté de verre glass leaves.  Back

     HASKELL early unsigned coral colored opaque glass beads and metal floral findings. Note the typical Haskell "flattened" beads with brass floral end-caps. The bracelet is strung on elastic.  The dress clip is 4".   View    View   #H19941

 

  

  

  HASKELL early unsigned transparent green glass beads coil bracelet, 2-1/3" front, 1" wide.  View   #H26800
  HASKELL Hess early unsigned green glass bead dress clip with clear rhinestone accents, 2-1/4".   View   #H26743

  HASKELL early unsigned blue glass beads dress clip with clear rhinestone leaves, 3-1/2".   View   #H26799    

HASKELL early unsigned aqua glass beads and rhinestone leaves coil bracelet, 1-3/4" front. (Seen in Christie Romero's "Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Ed, page 190.)   View   Bracelet   View    View    View   #H22610 HASKELL early unsigned aqua glass bead dress clip with rhinestone leaves, 2-3/4". View #H22888

 

   HASKELL early unsigned orange glass bead coil bracelet (7/8" wide 3" front drop) and 2-1/2" dress clip with silver tone and clear rhinestones ribbon motif.      View    View    View   #H20469

 

   HASKELL early unsigned orange glass bead coil bracelet (7/8" wide 3-1/2" wide front) and 2-1/2" dress clip with silver pot metal and clear rhinestones leaf motif.   View  View   View   #H24003

 
      A combination of glass beads with pot metal and rhinestone leaves give this clip a lush look, and it again shows the fine finishing detail of a tiny bead at each tip. Next to the clip is the matching bracelet.  

      Coral glass beads and gold tone florets create a wreath clip in a pleasingly asymmetrical design, with the matching bracelet to its left. These clips and bracelets all seem to vary slightly in size and design.

      There is some thought that the dress clips and bracelets using cast metal pave leaves are not Haskell, though the style of stringing different sized beads and ending each length with a tiny seed bead certainly looks typical. Cera states on page 59 of The Jewels of Miriam Haskell, "Because the use of glue was never permitted in making Miriam Haskell jewellery, rhinestones were used as little as possible." 

      Conversely, Bertl Groll, who was assistant to Frank Hess, identified these as Haskell pieces.  Bertl was also assistant to several of the later Haskell designers.  The photo below shows Bertl in the 1970's, during the time when Larry Vrba was the head designer, sitting at her desk at Haskell. Notice the tray of Haskell artificial pearls next to her left hand.

 

Bracelet of red opaque glass beads and clear rhinestones.   View    View    View
 View    View    #H19184

Bracelet of black opaque glass beads and clear rhinestones.   View    View    
View    View    #H19185

Bracelet and clip of green transparent glass beads and clear rhinestones.    Backs

      Two matching bracelets, one in red and the other in black. Note the difference between the rhinestone flowers in these compared to the green bracelet and clip on the right. 

      While the red and black bracelets may or may not be Haskell pieces, the combination of multiple-sized glass beads with pot metal and rhinestone leaf and flower findings makes lovely jeweled bouquets. 


 

   HASKELL early unsigned clip of aqua glass beads and lovely gold tone findings, 4".   View    #H19736 

  HASKELL  early unsigned aqua faceted crystal beaded 2-1/4" round dress clip with 2" beads drop and 7" "button" fastening bracelet.    View    View    View    #H19738

    HASKELL  attributed early unsigned 4" dress clip in gold tone petals and beads with aqua glass beads in three different shapes.  View   #H24809 

 

      HASKELL early unsigned cranberry glass beads and clear rhinestones coil bracelet and 3-1/3" dress clip.  View   #H24394

CLIP and bracelet of yellow glass beads and clear rhinestones.

HASKELL aqua and red glass bead clips and clip backs.  A matching set of clips (fur and dress) with silver metal, floral designs, irregular glass beads imitating turquoise and cranberry and turquoise paté de verre beads. There is also a matching necklace for these clips.

 

CLIP of pink and rose glass beads.

CLIP
CLIP

CLIP pink and rose beaded clip.

Several versions of pink and "pomegranate" glass beads—cascading, as a sautoir and in a starburst effect.
 

 

CLIPS   Back

   CLIP deep orange glass graduated beads dress clip, 2-5/8".   View   #Y25147

CLIP    Back

HASKELL unsigned cobalt blue glass bead clips with clear rhinestone accents.  View .  Here is an AD  showing these Haskell clips as a part of a set made in traditional Haskell faux pearls. However, some feel that these clips were not Haskell, but French.   View.   #19940

A very feminine dress clip made completely of metal, attribution probably Hess Haskell. 

A wonderful clip of gilded brass leaves and flowers combined with dangling, carved wood flowers and wood beads circa 1938-1939. You can see a similar clip using wood carved as walnuts on page 75 of Cera, The Jewels of Miriam Haskell.

 Some authorities think this style is French and not a Haskell although there is an old Haskell ad that illustrates designs very similar to this. Update 2009: we now have enough documentation to attribute these as Hess Haskell.

 Both the back and the front show typical Haskell construction, but attribution of this piece is uncertain.

In the tradition of the Art Nouveau artists before her, Haskell used many unusual materials during the war years when the normal jewelry making materials were in short supply. One favorite is the necklace made of pine cone petals! Pods, wood, plastic and sea shells were all used in Haskell jewelry.

 

One of the most unusual clips we have ever seen. It is quite small, but the use of color, round glass beads, square wood beads and pressed glass leaves is an artistic wonder. The beads are Czech looking, but the poured glass leaves and overall design look like Haskell.   Clip   View   View clip back   #H21874

   The large green glass flower, sometimes called "the tulip", was used in this clip and is also seen in other colors in later Haskell brooches and necklaces.    CLIP    Back

   Red and looking like pomegranate seeds, this clip is nested into cast silver tone leaves, a lush combination. Bertl identifies this as a Haskell.   CLIP    Back

 

CLIP   Back

CLIP   Back

   White and crayon colors beaded clip ....and clip back
Bertyl Groll, long time Haskell sample maker who was there during the Hess era, said that she does not think this is a Haskell.

      The two brooches on the left are said by the owner to be Haskell prototype brooches. They have similar pierced celluloid backs from the war years. Notice also the similarity to the crayon colored dress clip shown on the right, not only in color, but also in the metal spacers that separate the beads.
 

 

Czech, , French, Haskell or ???
 

Pastel "Bubbles"  pink and blue glass beads 2-1/4" dress clip.   View   #H19950

CLIP with beads and gold tone leaves.   Back

CLIP    Back

This clip is nicknamed "bubbles" by its owner! These bubble beads are translucent glass with gold tone leaves as a setting. You can see similar leaves used on the wood/shell clip on the bottom of page 78 of Cera.

 This is a very simple design for a Haskell piece. 

This pastel green glass bead fur clip is probably not a Haskell, but it is wonderful nonetheless with its filigree beads and "butterfly" motif.


Haskell loved butterflies and they are represented in numerous shapes and sizes, always with their wings stretched open, another common Art Nouveau motif.

 

 

    WOODEN multi-colored beads 3-1/2" dress clip with green wooden leaves.   View   #Y21708

Clips    Back
Bertl Groll, long time Haskell sample maker who was there during the Hess era, said that she does not think this is a Haskell set. Much more likely it is a Czech set.

Clip    Back
Bertl Groll, long time Haskell sample maker who was there during the Hess era, said that she thought this was a Haskell.

      Primary colors, round, oval and square glass and wood beads, and brass findings. What a range of designs was created! The first two pictures look Czech in origin, and the one on the far right is marked Czech, and also came in solid colors. 
 

 

FINDINGS

 

Clip back

Clip backs

Clip back

      There are several styles of clip backs, and they seem to have been used indiscriminately. The two aqua clips shown in the center are matching, but they are strung on very different clip backs, with one as a fur clip and the other as a dress clip.

      The plastic backings were used during WWII, while solid metal and perforated metal backings were used prior to the war.

      The blue clip at the far right is one of the ones Bertl identifies as Haskell.
 

 

Clip back

Clip backs

Clip back

This clip is unusual and lovely, with all metal parts and no glass beads.

    The traditional Haskell clip style on the left. The back for the clip on the right was typically used during the 1930s.

    The clip mounted on the white beaded piece matches those used on some of the "lampshade" clips.


      The plastic dress clip backs are World War II era, and were used due to the shortage of materials. The metal clips themselves, however, are not indicators of era as they were used for many years.
 

 

Clip backs

Clip back

Clip back

    All three are typical Haskell clip backs, though the clip fronts are extremely different!
 

 

Clip back

Clip back

Clip back

      Two fur clips and one dress clip. Only the one on the right is a Haskell, according to Bertl. Again, it has a plastic backing, but the metal clip is different from those pictured on this page.
 

 

Copies and Inspiration

 

   HASKELL topaz-colored glass beads and rhinestones with gold tone chains 16" necklace with pinecone motif  clasp.  View   #H22664

View together     View

  AMOURELLE  pinecones motif topaz- and honey-colored glass beads and rhinestones 17" necklace with 4" pendant.  View   View  #X23033

Attributing unsigned jewelry is always uncertain, so where possible I have shown old Haskell advertisements and/or other documentation to add credibility to the identifications. While beads and findings may be used as clues, they are not definitive. An example of why can be seen in the comparison of  a Haskell and an Amourelle necklace, shown above. If the Amourelle was unsigned, it would be easy to identify it as Haskell. Each and every bead and finding is identical to the signed Haskell necklace.

According to those who worked in the jewelry industry, the practice of designers using each other's pieces as inspiration was common, as was the "borrowing" of ideas for the use and combinations of beads, findings and designs. The sets shown directly above, one by Haskell and one marked Amourelle, demonstrate this. In this case though, both of these were Frank Hess designs... one done when he worked for Haskell, and one when he worked for Amourelle.
 

 

 Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry                 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE
.

                       

ABOUT US
TOUR OUR MALL

We accept PayPal

WE ACCEPT VISA
& MASTER CARD
Cards we accept


ANTIQUES IN ALBUQUERQUE
VISIT NEW MEXICO

 

LINKS-Jewelry

PLEASE NOTE: Regretfully, it is no longer possible to respond to individual questions regarding jewelry history, identification or value, or to offer written or verbal appraisals or opinions. The demand for this kind of information is absolutely too overwhelming for one dealer to fill. 
I love jewelry, but appraising and selling are two entirely different businesses, and I choose selling and research as my business.

Instead, articles are added on a regular basis to JEWEL CHAT on line Magazine, a wonderful reference for  information on many makers and styles of vintage jewelry. 
For information on valuing your jewelry, click HERE.