Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
at the

and on the internet since 1996
12815 Central NE, Albuquerque, New Mexico, 87123  USA
Jane Haley Clarke, owner
Copyright 1994-2019 All rights Reserv


Welcome to the beauty, history and art that is vintage jewelry. We buy and sell vintage rhinestone, costume, designer, bakelite, and antique Georgian & Victorian jewelry, sterling, and accessories.
To be alerted when NEW ITEMS are added to the site, please e-mail and we will be glad to add you to the contact list.
All jewelry is in excellent vintage condition unless specified otherwise.  All items are subject to prior sale.
We work constantly to offer extensive jewelry research, pictures and information on our reference site " Jewel Chat " and gallery " Morning Glory Collects ". 
We share our reference material free of charge and work hard to make it accurate, but as with any research, mistakes can be made. We are not responsible for the use you make of the information here or the honest mistakes that may occur from time to time.
We do not offer identification, valuation or appraisal services. 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. Many of these items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only, but you are always welcome to ask.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

1994-2019 All Rights Reserved


Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry presents

Costume Jewelry Magazine



The indications of QUALITY
in costume jewelry

Vintage costume jewelry varies widely in price and desirability. I am often asked what makes one piece better quality, more expensive and more desirable than another, and below are some of the answers along with examples.


Quality of materials~  
Jewelry manufacturers used different quality materials... this is evident even in the pieces we see today. Quality in rhinestones is determined best by brilliance and clarity. The lead content and cut of Swarovski stones, for instance, makes them incredibly brilliant and clear. Good rhinestones, like good diamonds, sparkle beautifully, and inferior ones are cloudier and less brilliant. Inferior stones can be the result of poor condition, but it can also be lower quality stones that were used in the jewelry originally.

Clear, very high quality stones with lots of sparkle and no foil damage (darkening of stones).

   A variety of sizes and shapes of rhinestones often increases design appeal and desirability.

  Swarovski stones have a first-class reputation for sparkle, quality and consistency.

  Cloudy and/or grayed rhinestones devalue any piece of jewelry, as do inferior quality dull stones. This additionally has a flat uninteresting design.

   WEISS necklace, bracelet and brooch and earrings in dazzling clear rhinestones.  View   View   View   View   #W1824 

 WEISS clear rhinestone brooch.   View   #W20716

SWAROVSKI  Christmas tree pin.  
View   #K19156 

   CLEAR rhinestone simple floral brooch with a flat design and dim stones .   #Y20731  



Quality of design~  
This may seem subjective but, just as in art, good design has quantifiable elements: composition, use of color, use of material, attention to detail and artistic merit of design. These pieces have it all!

Intricate well-balanced artistic design with layers of interest

Historical reference designs, figurals

Colorful cheerful design with very high quality enameling

Trifari "demi-lune" rhinestone pieces with unusual rhinestones and graceful designs, and a degree of rarity

   DeROSA 3" fur clip marked R DeROSA with a peacock surrounded by magnificent detail.   View   View   View   View   #d18663

  KRAMER  regal brushed gold tone winged crowned lion brooch with red cabochons and rhinestones, 3".   View   #X21197

   MB ENAMEL cherries brooch with high quality enameling.   View   #B16698

   TRIFARI wisteria purple demi-lune rhinestones 3-3/4" brooch (converted from a fur clip) #T18642 
Violets bracelet 7" by 1-5/8".  #T18643
and violets  fur clip #T21205.   Backs



Creative motifs~  
 Detailed hand work work, craftsmanship, mechanical elements and complexity all add to the desirability of pieces like these.

 Mechanical pieces

Attention to detail

   Unusual use of materials

Appeal of subject

  COROCRAFT day and night blue cabochon and pave floral 4" brooch.  View  View   OPEN   CLOSE     MECHANISM #C20223

HASKELL unsigned 1940's vintage necklace with the slightly flattened larger glass beads typical of this era. It matches the dress clip to the left.  View   View    View    View    View    View    #H19404      LUCITE jelly belly trembler brooch, a hand holding a pale pink and cream enameled orchid flower with aqua forget-me-nots wrist corsage with a glass pearl center, circa 1945, a large 4" long.   #Y38383   DeROSA unsigned clear rhinestone links necklace with  tiny pastel porcelain roses and matching signed clip.    View   View   View   View   #d22193



Intricacy of construction~
Flat, simple and average pieces with little dimension and design were less expensive when they were originally made, and are not very desirable to collectors now.
The three pictures below are examples of lower quality jewelry. They are wearable, and may even be marketable, but only at low prices.


    flat design

simply designed rhinestones      

common brooch    

   Clear rhinestones floral brooch.  #Y21211

  RED rhinestones and aurora borealis necklace, 14-15".   View  #Y21977

Clear rhinestones circle brooch.  #Y21055


These pieces show more complex design and use of color, and they are more rare. Prices for these would be on the high end range for costume jewelry.

   Beautiful and intricate hand work

  Creative use of unusual stones, 3-D design    

 Well designed combination of layers

    HASKELL parure composed of purple faceted crystal beads, chartreuse glass teardrops and poured glass leaves, it is enhanced by rhinestones, artificial pearls and filigree work. The necklace is 14 inches long with a 3 inch pendant, matching 2-1/2" wide brooch 1-3/4" earrings. So typical of the things best about Haskell... the intricate work, the wonderful colors, and the delicate detailing.   View   View   View    View    View   View    View   View   View    View    #H19083

  DeROSA rose bud fur clip, invisible set rose colored glass, rhinestones and faux pearl, 4" tall. This is a large piece with unusual elements and three dimensional design.  View    View    View   View   View   View   #d19517  

   DUJAY unsigned flower brooch with lovely purple glass beads, green enameling and clear and purple rhinestones 3-1/2".  View   #Y20383  



Rare and/or one-of-a-kind pieces and pieces with provenance which are also well made and in good condition command the highest prices of all.


    HASKELL/VRBA this fabulous one-of-a-kind portrait pin was made for a Broadway play by Larry Vrba when he was the designer for Miriam Haskell Jewelry.     View   View   #H10012

MIRIAM HASKELL circa 1940 Frank Hess designed necklace, bracelet, and three clips jewelry parure with original illustration advertising art work by Larry Austin.

 DeROSA 2-11/16" face motif fur clip made from the design shown at left. See this piece in Harrice Miller's "Confident Collector, 2nd Edition" on page 98.  View   #d20623 



Historical Interest~  
Jewelry that has been featured in books and magazines or has been prominently worn or owned by well-known people has a cachet of its own.

 BAKELITE heart and key brooch seen on the cover of  a 1940's Life Magazine  

   "BOOK" pieces.

Pieces with provenance.


  BAKELITE red heart and key pin.  View  #B16689

  HASKELL early Hess unsigned dress clip. Note the cast metal flower petals set with rhinestones.  #H18844 

VICTORIAN gold and enameled brooch with plaited thick blonde hair under glass with extended pin stem, "In Memory Of" encircling frame, and engraved on back, 1-1/2" by 2": 
Ms Buchannan, died 12th Nov 1843
John Wilson died 4th June 1843
Seen in Christie Romero's "Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Ed, page 35 and in Becker's "Antique & Twentieth Century Jewelry" on page 106.   It also was featured in Southeastern Antiquing & Collecting Magazine, August 2003.  View   View   View   View  #V9521

Ann Southern 1941
 This brooch looks like the STARET bleeding heart brooch circa 1940.    #S18228




Era or Maker Interest~  
Jewelry that is strongly typical of it's era and style is always popular. But conversely, this can also be true of jewelry that is very atypical of a designer or era. See JEWELRY BY THE DECADES to help date your jewelry.




   DRAGONFLY and poppy sash pin.   View  #Q19163 

     HASKELL lavender parure with glass beads, seed beads, petals and leaves.  #H19502

   CARNEGIE enameled cast metal angel child brooch, 4". This is a large and heavy piece with lustrous enameling, and unlike any Carnegie I have seen before.   View   #C23043 



Fashions and Trends~  
What is on the TV and movie stars, what is being talked about by collectors, what is on the fashion run ways... all these influence what is hot and what is not. And like apparel, jewelry fashions may come and go with jewelry and accessories following suite. Buying high quality, excellent condition, multiple pieces in a set and/or unusual items is a good hedge against the trends of the times.




  VEGA enameled ring with a parrot design and red, green and burgundy enameling and Azurite/Malachite (The Azurite is the blue material and the Malachite is the green material), size 10, 2-1/2". Azurite was thought to be an aid to spiritualism by the Egyptians.   View   View   View   #X33331

 SHULTZ bakelite cream, black, red and white bangle stack, great graphics and vivid colors.   #Bscz17

   Lovely lady brooch purple glass in an intricate and artistic setting. Exactly when and where she was made is uncertain, but she surely is a beauty.  View  View   View    View    View    View 



Personal Preferences and Associations~  
In spite of all other factors, personal taste, sentimental associations and general eye appeal count. Personal associations and preferences often overrule all the other decision making points listed above, so as it is often said, "Buy what you like". It will make either your collection so much more distinctive!

    Sentiment.. a piece reminiscent of an special event.

       Personal Tastes

Eye appeal

   SWAROVSKI red glass grapes and pave leaves brooch, a sentimental favorite of mine as it marked a special occasion.  
View   #K20104

     Signed R DeROSA on each piece, peacocks with enameling, faux pearls and rhinestones. A 6-1/2" by 1-1/4" bracelet  View   View   and matching 1-1/8" by 1" earrings and 3" by 2-1/4" dress clip   View     #d18666

    ENAMELED huge 5" floral brooch with rose colored cabochon centers.   View   View   #Y23057


 Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry                 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE



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PLEASE NOTE: Regretfully, it is no longer possible to respond to individual questions regarding jewelry history, identification or value, or to offer written or verbal appraisals or opinions. The demand for this kind of information is absolutely too overwhelming for one dealer to fill. 
I love jewelry, but appraising and selling are two entirely different businesses, and I choose selling and research as my business.

Instead, articles are added on a regular basis to JEWEL CHAT on line Magazine, a wonderful reference for  information on many makers and styles of vintage jewelry. 
For information on valuing your jewelry, click HERE.