Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
at the

ANTIQUE CONNECTION MALL
and on the internet since 1996
12815 Central NE, Albuquerque, New Mexico, 87123  USA
~
Jane Haley Clarke, owner
Copyright 1994-2017 All rights Reserv
ed ©

 


Welcome to the beauty, history and art that is vintage jewelry. We buy and sell vintage rhinestone, costume, designer, bakelite and antique Georgian & Victorian jewelry, purses and accessories.
To be alerted when NEW ITEMS are added to the site, please e-mail jane@morninggloryantiques.com and we will be glad to add you to the contact list.
All jewelry is in excellent vintage condition unless specified otherwise.  All items are subject to prior sale.
We work constantly to offer extensive jewelry research, pictures and information in our reference, " Jewel Chat " and gallery " Morning Glory Collects ". 
We share our reference material free of charge and work hard to make it accurate, but as with any research, mistakes can be made. We are not responsible for the use you make of the information here or the honest mistakes that may occur from time to time.
We do not offer identification, valuation or appraisal services. 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. Most of these items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE
.

© 1994-2017 All Rights Reserved

 

 


WATCH & LORGNETTE CHAINS
FOBS AND RIBBONS
1860s to 1930s

 

Hair jewelry, once considered the height of sentimental fashion, became less popular for a few decades in the 20th Century. Once the century neared it's end though, and helped along with the Steampunk styling, it again became popular and desirable.

In Jeanenne Bell's book, "Collector's Encyclopedia of Hairwork Jewelry", she states that in the 1800's, "watch chains were the most popular forms of hair jewelry". Vintage catalogues offered the mounts and findings to make these watch chains, but they were also made professionally, using the customer's hair if desired. These made-to-order chains and findings cost from $8.00 to $25.00 in that era, according to one of my vintage catalogues. Hair might be woven around a core of plaited hair or cloth for extra stiffness or braided into different designs, and these designs of the weaving varied widely. Combining more than one style at a time makes for a lovely chain.

Just like the metal watch chains, and as you can see in one of the photos below, women wore these chains as necklaces and bracelets too, as well as for watches. Fobs might include lockets, charms, symbols of occupation or sports interests, and tools. The fobs could be decorative or useful, as were the chains themselves.
 

 


LORGNETTE or LONG CHAINS
 

 

VICTORIAN lady wearing a long chain with a watch attached. PORTRAIT of a lady with her lorgnette, hand painted on ivory circa 1870.  View   View   View   View   View  #a31889 VICTORIAN lady in white blouse with tiny tucks and wearing a watch on a slide chain. Cabinet card 4-1/8" by 6-1/2".

 

VICTORIAN JFSS opal and seed pearl slide chain, gold filled, 30".   View   #V34717 "Fine rolled gold plate guard chains." Showing both Roman finish and polished links.
Roddin Jewelry Catalogue page 127
EDWARDIAN slide chain in 14k yellow gold with diamond heart slide with prong set diamond, extra long at 49".    View   #Q62727

 

14k GOLD long chains, slides and men's chains. "Our chains have every link soldered, making them strong and durable".
From the Daniel Low Catalogue, 1906.
LORGNETTE chain, F&C Co gold filled 48" chain with 1/3" seed pearl slide, circa 1900.   View   #Q25386 14k GOLD brooches and long chains; 14k bead necklaces; 14k collar spreaders and 14k gold neck chains.
From the Daniel Low Catalogue, 1906.


 


WATCH PINS
A watch pin has a hook on the back from which to suspend a watch, probably most often worn by women.
 

 

ELGIN 14k yellow gold lady's pendant 1-1/3" watch with 1-1/3" watch holder brooch with black enameling. Works marked "Elgin U.S.A., 15386609" size Os, circa 1910. Case marked "Keystone Co. 14k, 5120061".   View   View   #w25029

 

EDWARDIAN 18k yellow gold watch pin is delicately enameled with a griffons and crown motif and is set with a ruby (2.0mm purplish-red), five 2.0mm pearls, one old mine cut diamond (est. .04 ct, VS, G-1), six old mine cut diamonds (est. weight from .01 ct to .02 ct, VS, G-1) and one central fresh water pearl (9.0mm by 7.0mm).    View   View   View   View    #V24861   

ART NOUVEAU 14 karat yellow gold polychrome enamel, pearl and diamond wreath watch pin pendant circa 1900.  The dog's tooth shaped freshwater pearl is accented by three European diamonds (total weight approx. .03 carat each). The catch is a safety style, with roll-over closure, and the bail swivels to be hidden when not in use. There is slight enamel damage on one side, invisible without a 10x loupe.  View   #Q25030 

 

10k SHAMROCK and crescent pin enameled with delicate detail decorated with seed pearls, watch hook on back, circa 1900, 7/8".   View   #Q17834  VICTORIAN wearing her pendant watch on a watch pin.  View EDWARDIAN dainty 14 karat yellow gold, pearls and blue enamel pin, marked "14k" on the catch, circa 1910, 1-1/4". This has a small hook on the back so that it can be worn as a pendant or used as a watch pin. Total weight about .25 ounces, pearls included.   View   #Q36287 

 


WOVEN HAIR WATCH CHAINS
Made from human and sometimes horse hair, these were done both as a home craft and professionally. The fittings could be purchased by catalogue or in stores and came in sterling, karat gold and base metals.
 

 

  

 

    

   VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain with a spinning fob of carnelian on one side and black onyx or glas$98.00s on the other. This chain has a longer 16" portion from the hook to the toggle and then another 3-1/2" part from the toggle to the fob, which is 1-1/4"by 7/8". The gold tone fittings on the hair chain have etched designs. A similar style chain can be seen in the A.Bernard & Co 1870 Catalogue of Victorian hair jewelry on page 39 HERE.   View   #V38328

VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain with moss agate cross shaped fob, total length 13-1/2" and the fob is 1". The weaving has two strands that twist beautifully around each other, in very good condition, and the gold tone findings are firm and have nice weight.   View   #V38329 

     VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain and locket fob, hair  chain with two lovely weaving styles and 11" long. The locket is 1/2" and folds out with metal frames to hold two tiny photos, and it is marked inside "B Co". Both the gold tone locket front and the chain findings have etched designs. A similar style weaving can be seen in the A.Bernard & Co 1870 Catalogue of Victorian hair jewelry on page 39 HERE.   View   #V38330 

 

  

 

    

   VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain and locket fob, total length 14". The hair portion is three stands with two weaving styles, and while it is tight, there are some places where the weaving is coming loose. The locket opens and houses a tiny photo of a bride wearing her veil. There is an etched design on the front and the finish is worn, it is 11/16". The center finding holds a tiny white and two red stones with etched designs there and on both ends. The swivel hook is missing.   View   #V38331 

  VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain with two strands, each with two different weaving styles. The locket fob is sporting the initial "Y" in red, clear and blue rhinestones. The locket folds open to house one tiny photo. The gold tone finish is a bit worn on the back edges and it is 3/4' by 3/4". The hair and chain are 15" long with gold tone fittings decorated with etched designs.  View   View   #V38332 

     VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain with two alternating weaving styles, gold findings and a faceted topaz colored glass fob, 1/2". The total chain length is 10-1/4" and there are almost no loose hairs. The gold tone findings have etched flower designs on them  #V38333 

 

 

VEST silk fob watch chains.  
1899 Benjamin Allen Catalogue
VICTORIAN 375 (9 ct) hair 14" watch chain with fob engraved with initials and marked "WA .375".  View   #V21554 ONE-TENTH gold and hard solder hair chain mountings.
1899 Benjamin Allen Catalogue

 

  

 

    

   VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain and locket, chain total length unusually long at 19" and the locket is 1-1/4" by 1". The chain has two lovely weaving styles and the locket opens and can hold two photos, but the fittings are not there. The locket is lovely with etched designs on both sides, but someone tested it badly for gold content by carving a nick in the back side. The gold tone findings all have etched designs and the center part has room for three stones, with only two present, a white and a red cabochon.  View   #V38334 

VICTORIAN woven hair two strand watch chain and fob in gold tone. The fob has the initials "SAW" in beautiful swirling script and it is 3/4" by 7/8". The total chain length is 10-1/2" and there are some loose hairs, but it is tight overall.  #V38335 

 

     VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain with a photo fob set in gold tone. The total length of the chain is 8" and the celluloid covered photo fob is 1" with a beaded edge and the mark ""SU" on the back. There a few loose hairs along the chain, and the weaving is tight and stable. The swivel hook is missing.   #V38336 

 

 

 

LADY wearing gold earrings and a woven hair necklace made from a watch chain with a photograph pendant. Carte de viste marked "Robertson & Brooks, Franklin, KY."

VICTORIAN gentleman wearing a watch chain and fob. Cabinet card marked "E.M. Phillips, Fairburn, Ills."   View

"Waldemar chain: Manís watch chain, generally about 14 inches long, usually worn across a vest front, with a swivel for the watch bow on one end and a spring ring on the other for a fob, charm, pocket knife etc."

 

  

 

    

   VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain, 12" with a gold tone locket, 1". The locket can hold a photo, but the findings are missing and it is cracked, which can be seen from the inside upon close examination. The gold tone findings show wear and the center piece has red and white stones in it, still present. The hair is well weaved but does have some fraying all along the chain.  View   #V38337  

  VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain with gold tone fittings and a square locket. The chain is a total length of 12-1/2" and the locket fob is 1" by 3/4". It opens to hold two photos, one without the glass. The hair has very little fraying and the fittings are black enamel on gold tone with etched designs. A similar style can be seen in the A.Bernard & Co 1870 Catalogue of Victorian hair jewelry on page 39 HERE.   View   View   #V38338  

     VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain with gold tone heart locket fob, total length 12-1/2" and heart 3/4". The locket has an engraved heart, flower and leaves design and opens to hold two photos, with frames but no glass, and no swivel hook. It is marked for the maker inside "P&K". There are loose hairs along the chain but it is firm and tight overall.     View   View   #V38339 

 

  

 

    

   VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain with oval gold tone locket, chain 12" locket 3/4" by 1/2". There are two styles of lovely weaving in the chain and almost no loose hair at all. The locket has an applied design on the front and opens to hold two photos, but only one has the glass and frame. Someone has carved a nick into the back side. The gold tone fittings have etched designs.  View   View   #V38340  

VICTORIAN woven two strand hair watch chain with gold tone fittings, total length 9-/12". The two gold fittings each have a etched design and the hair has very little loose pieces.  View   #V38341 

 

     VICTORIAN woven hair watch chain, 12", with a gold and silver toned fob, 7/8". The watch chain has two alternating styles of weaving, just lovely and with almost no loose hair. The fittings are a lovely shape with etched designs on them.  View   #V38342 
 

 


WATCH CHAINS
There are several types of watch chains including but not limited to Albert, Albertina, Waldemar, Dickens, Victoria, Wellington, pony and silk..
 

 

VICTORIAN 1887 Roddin Catalogue page 129
"Rolled gold plate neck chains. First quality, length 13 inches." The top two say "plain nugget finish"; the next three are "square links"; the next is "alternate plain and engraved links"; then "square twist links with chased connection", and the rest are square links. 
WATCH chain in gold metal with a decorated slide and a swivel hook, men's 11".   #V23375 FINE rolled plate vest watch chains, two and three strand curbs with slides, all have drop pieces for a charm.
From the Benjamin Allen Catalogue 1899.

 

G.W. HUNTLEY Co. 1913 Catalogue page 113
"Gold filled fancy safety fob chains.".
This gentleman's fob dangles from a fabric watch holder tucked into his pocket. His fob is a cameo. G.W. HUNTLEY Co. 1913 Catalogue page 114.
"Fine solid glad fancy fob chains."

 

WATCH holder in gold tone watch with fobs, total length 4" with the fobs 1" by 1" and 5/8" by 5/8". The top clip would fasten to a waistband, vest edge or pocket and the watch would be clipped to the hook. Among other places, these can be seen in the 1913 G.W. HUNTLEY Co. 1913 Catalogue on pages 113, 114 and 115, and the the 1923 Schwab Jewelry Catalogue on page 225.     #V38452  

WALDEMAR chain, a gold filled watch chain with a toggle for the buttonhole at one end, a safety clasp for a fob on another end and the swivel hook for a watch on the last end. The length from the toggle to the hook is 11", and from the chain to the safety is 1-1/2". This style watch chains can be seen, among other places, in the 1923 Schwab Jewelry Catalogue on page 225.   #V38453

   WATCH holder in gold filled, total length 4" with a 4-1/3" chain. The top clip would fasten to a waistband, vest edge or pocket and the watch would be clipped to the hook. There is another ring on the front for a fob. It is marked on the back of the hook "Anberg Mfg. Co." Among other places, these can be seen in the 1913 G.W. HUNTLEY Co. 1913 Catalogue on pages 113, 114 and 115, and the the 1923 Schwab Jewelry Catalogue on page 225. .    View   #V38451 

 

  1923 Schwab Catalogue page 225
"Gentlemen's gold filled fobs with safety attachments."
"Ladies solid gold Victoria watch chains with attached pins and slide chains." Also included a mother-of-pearl horn fob or charm and slide chains.
1897 Sears Catalogue, page 411

 

VICTORIAN 14k watch chain with black enameling on slides, marked inside hook "14", total length 9-1/2", weight .53ozs. The hook is marked inside "14k".    View   #V34600

VICTORIAN hair unusually woven watch chain and gold filled fob and fittings, 11-1/2" total length.   View   View   #V34570

  VICTORIAN 9 karat rose gold Albertina watch chain bracelet with each link faceted and etched with scallops,  weight .71ozs, 8" long and 1/8" wide, marked "9ct" on hook . This was once a man's watch chain, remade in it's past to be worn as a bracelet. Similar pieces can be seen in the 1887 E. V. Roddin Catalogue View   #V34590

 

This elegant couple wears watch jewelry... his is a vest chain with fob and hers is a slide chain. FINE rolled plate vest watch chains.
1899 Benjamin Allen Catalogue
 A lady wearing a slide chain and another lady wearing a ribbon watch holder suspended from her pocket.

 

Ladies wearing watch chains and fobs at the neckline. "Ladies solid gold Victoria watch chains."
1897 Sears Catalogue, page 413
Ladies wearing watch chains and fobs at the neckline.

 

VICTORIAN  "Finest quality gold filled Wellington and pony vest watch chains" with cameo and spinner fobs.
Sears Jewelry Catalogue, 1897 page 407.
S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1878
White metal curb vest watch chains, solid silver chains.
Rope link, fancy link, double curb chains with swivels and hooks.
VEST silk fob watch holders and one metal one.
From the Benjamin Allen Catalogue 1899.

 

1923 Schwab Catalogue
Waldemar watch chains with a safety catch on one end and a swivel hook on the other.

1923 Schwab Catalogue
Waldemar watch chains with a safety catch on one end and a swivel hook on the other.

  1923 Schwab Catalogue
Coat chains, which have a button on one end and a swivel hook on the other.

 


FOBS & LOCKETS
 

 


"FINE solid gold lockets... we can furnish any initials."
From the Benjamin Allen Catalogue 1899
 GOLD TONE square fob locket with rhinestone engraved "ARN", circa 1900.   View   View  #Y22832 SOLID gold locket fobs.
From the Benjamin Allen Catalogue 1899

 



   "Finest quality gold filled and sterling watch charms." These fobs reflect the wearer's sentimental attachments, interests, fraternal organizations or careers. There are figural and locket fibs as well.
Sears Jewelry Catalogue, 1897 page 420
   GOLD FILLED locket with navy and aqua enameling.  #V22927

Locket watch fob.   #V22932

"Fine quality gold filled watch charms and fobs."
Page 419 
Sears Jewelry Catalogue, 1897
 VICTORIAN gold tone bracelet with watch fobs as charms.  View   #V17891 and #V22040

 

 

FINE rolled gold plate "Dickens" vest watch chains.
From Becken Catalogue 1902. As can be seen above, a Dicken's chain has a toggle for the buttonhole, a place for a fob and a hook end and safety end for the watch and another charm, fob or pocket knife.

   VICTORIAN 9 carat 1-1/8" flip fob of banded agate and carnelian on a 16" chain.   View   #V23421 GENTS and ladies fine silk fob watch chains.
From Becken Catalogue 1902

 VICTORIAN gold filled watch chain with fob  View   #V17046

 

FINE rolled plate emblem fobs and charms.
From the Benjamin Allen Catalogue 1899.
VICTORIAN Masonic 5/8" clock watch fob on 15" chain.   View   #V17046 DIAMOND lockets, fobs and sleeve buttons.
From the Benjamin Allen Catalogue 1899.

 



  VICTORIAN pocket watch key with faceted carnelian top, 1-5/8" including loop.    #V28682

   VICTORIAN Art Nouveau gold tone fob chatelaine with graduated disks with lady faces motif, 4-5/8" with 5" chain.   View   View    #V28384

VICTORIAN watch fob with lovely oval agates set in silver tone with a gold tone swivel hook, total length 4" with each agate 1-1/8" by 7/8".  View   #V38448

 

 

REFERENCES:

A. Bernhard & Co. Catalogue, 1870

Mourning Art & Jewelry by Maureen Delorme

 In Death Lamented; the Tradition of Anglo-American Mourning Jewelry  by Sarah Nehama,
a companion volume to the Fall Exhibit at the Massachusetts Historical Society 2012

Art of Mourning
Morbid Outlook: Fashion History

Collectors Encyclopedia of Hairwork Jewelry
by Jeanenne Bell

 



 

 Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry                 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE
.

                       

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PLEASE NOTE: Regretfully, it is no longer possible to respond to individual questions regarding jewelry history, identification or value, or to offer written or verbal appraisals or opinions. The demand for this kind of information is absolutely too overwhelming for one dealer to fill. 
I love jewelry, but appraising and selling are two entirely different businesses, and I choose selling as my business.

Instead, articles are added on a regular basis to JEWEL CHAT on line Magazine, a wonderful reference for  information on many makers and styles of vintage jewelry. 
For information on valuing your jewelry, click HERE.