Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
at the

ANTIQUE CONNECTION MALL
and on the internet since 1996
12815 Central NE, Albuquerque, New Mexico, 87123  USA
~
Jane Haley Clarke, owner
Copyright 1994-2017 All rights Reserv
ed

 


Welcome to the beauty, history and art that is vintage jewelry. We buy and sell vintage rhinestone, costume, designer, bakelite and antique Georgian & Victorian jewelry, purses and accessories.
To be alerted when NEW ITEMS are added to the site, please e-mail jane@morninggloryantiques.com and we will be glad to add you to the contact list.
All jewelry is in excellent vintage condition unless specified otherwise.  All items are subject to prior sale.
We work constantly to offer extensive jewelry research, pictures and information in our reference, " Jewel Chat " and gallery " Morning Glory Collects ". 
We share our reference material free of charge and work hard to make it accurate, but as with any research, mistakes can be made. We are not responsible for the use you make of the information here or the honest mistakes that may occur from time to time.
We do not offer identification, valuation or appraisal services. 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. Most of these items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE
.

1994-2017 All Rights Reserved

 

 

Morning Glory Collects...
things we love to buy, wear and share

Victorian Jet, Vulcanite, Bog Oak, Pressed Horn & French Jet
Bracelets
 

 


  During part of the Victorian period from about 1860 to 1890, black jewelry was the height of fashion and black was a stylish color, not just an ornament of mourning. Made of jet, vulcanite, bog oak or pressed horn, many carried a special meaning as a memento of a loved one. A brooch in the shape of a hand carrying a bouquet conveyed a message symbolized by the flowers. Photos might be housed inside lockets and watch fobs, and portraits hand painted on pendants and earrings. While some black jewelry was meant to be worn during mourning, black jewelry was fashionable as well, and worn for its beauty and sentiment.
 

 

  VICTORIAN Whitby jet and sea shell cameo bracelet with alternating faceted and domed segments strung on elastic circa 1870, 6" by 1-5/8". This bracelet was seen in "Antiques & Collecting Magazine" page 52, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet jewellery called Black Magic by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D.        View   View   View   #V31960     VICTORIAN shell cameos set in jet bracelet circa 1870. Four of the cameos are matching lovely ladies, and the center cameo is a pair of cherubs. A similar bracelet can be seen in Bell's Old Jewelry on page 55.   View   View   View   View   View   View   View   View  #V28825   VICTORIAN shell cameo set carved jet brooch, circa 1870, 1-5/8".   View   #V28766


Sea shell cameos set into jet combine two favorite Victorian jewelry materials, as these bracelets and brooch illustrate.
 

 

 

  VICTORIAN painted porcelain miniature set in jet boy portrait brooch, circa 1870, 2-1/8". For a similar piece see page 32 in Helen Muller's "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments"  View   #V25351  

    VICTORIAN 2" "gypsy boy" hand detailed portrait on jet segmented bracelet circa 1870, 1" wide and strung on elastic, fits a 6 to 6-1/2" wrist. This bracelet was seen in "Antiques & Collecting Magazine" page 52, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet jewellery called Black Magic by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D.      View   #V28835

   VICTORIAN vulcanite boy portrait miniature pendant, circa 1870, 1-1/2". See page 32 in Helen Muller's "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments".   View   #V27673  


The "Gypsy Boy" was a very popular Victorian motif, and the group illustrates the variety of pieces and styles in which it can be seen.
 

 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet Leda and the swan cameo bracelet, a Classical myth in which Zeus seduces Leda, wife of the King of Sparta, by disguising himself as a swan, circa 1870, 6-5/8" around when relaxed, 1-5/8" wide at front and 5/" wide at the back.  There is one stable crack in the cameo and nicks at the edge where it was set.   View   View   #V35100

 

 VICTORIAN Whitby jet gypsy boy faceted expansion bracelet, the boy painted on a porcelain oval has light scratches on the face, relaxed size 6-5/8", front oval 1-1/3", band 3/4". Green boy pieces like this were popular circa 1860. 

This very special piece is from the personal jet collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery.  I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections.  It is guaranteed to be genuine and all original Victorian Whitby jet.  Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the subject.
 View   View   #V36501

 VICTORIAN Whitby jet shell cameo bracelet with male god bust and faceted links, 6-3/4" relaxed size and 1-1/4" wide at front, 1" at back, very tiny flea bites at some edges. Flea bites are typical of jet of this age and these are barely noticeable, just mentioned for accuracy.

This very special piece is from the personal jet collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery.  I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections.  It is guaranteed to be genuine and all original Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the subject.  View   #V36455

 

Antiques Diary Magazine May 2009 showing the bracelet at the right on this page.




 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet bracelet with green Tyrolean boy and faceted links, 6-1/8" relaxed size and stretches to 6-1/3" with a 1-1/2" wide front and 1-1/8" back. Green boy pieces like this were popular circa 1860. This exact piece was featured in the May-June Issue of Antiques Diary, Britain, and a copy of this article will be included with the bracelet.

This very special piece is from the personal jet collection of Katy and Helen Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed to be genuine and all original Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet Jewellery & Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the subject. View   View   #V36454

VICTORIAN jet buckle expansion bangle circa 1870, 6-5/8" relaxed size, 2" front width, 1-1/4".  View   View   #V36899

 


 

 

 

VICTORIAN bois durci buckle bracelet with applied and etched silver buckle on the front. The buckle front is 2" by 1-1/4", the wearable size is slightly larger than normal at 7-1/3", and the width at the band is 7/8". It is strung on black elastic as it should be. Circa 1860s, these are harder to find that vulcanite. Bois Durci (hardened wood) was invented by FC Lepage in 1855, UK Patent No. 2232. It is a combination of albumen and sawdust, created under pressure and with a molded design.  This piece can be seen in the wonderful book "Georgian Jewellery" on page 128-9. You can recognize bois durci, which translates as "hardened wood", by the lightly bubbly finish on the back side.  View  #V38616

VICTORIAN jet and pietra dura expansion bracelet, rare and fabulous, circa 1870. The center has a pink rose, turquoise forget-me-nots and green leaves on a black background. The bracelet is 7" around the inside when relaxed, the front center is 2" by 1-3/4" and the back is 1-1/4" wide. This is in excellent condition and a real collector's dream, circa 1870.   View  View   #V38360

 

  VICTORIAN Whitby jet and cameo bracelet with links strung on elastic, includes extra pieces in case you need a larger size. The cameo front is 2" by 1-5/8" and bracelet width about 1-1/2", with some very minor chips in the back segments.  View   View   View   View   #V38725

 

 

 VICTORIAN Whitby jet roses expansion bracelet, a larger size at 8" around the inside, 1-1/2" wide at front and 7/8" wide at the back. Upon  close examination it has nicks at the edges commensurate with age and wear, hard to see when worn.  View   View   #V35101

 

  

 VICTORIAN Whitby jet rare charm bracelet with 6 charms plus padlock closure and chunky chain, 8 wearable length, padlock 1-3/4" total length, carved oval with painted rose center and Maltese cross carved back 1-1/4" and 5/8" thick, carved acorn 3/4", flower etched oval with plain back 1", book with etched Whitby Abbey 1" by 3/4", fabulously carved knot charm 1" and cross 1". An amazing bracelet!

This very special piece is from the personal jet collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed to be genuine and all original Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the subject.  View   View   #V36452

  VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved expansion bracelet, 7" by 1-1/2" front and 7/8" sides. The front panel is carved with a sunburst surrounded by scalloped and faceted balls, and the side links are cross-hatched.  View   View   #V32391 

 

 

 

   VICTORIAN  Whitby jet snake bracelet with beautifully carved head, about 18" long and 1-3" to 1-8" wide. See page 83 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".  Similar piece seen in Helen Mueller's "Jet" on page 83;  in Christie Romero's "Warman's Jewelry, 2nd Ed" page 32 and 3rd edition page 51; and in Becker's "Antique & Twentieth Century Jewelry" on page 54.   #V29886 VICTORIAN lady wearing her long chain, cameo and matching jet bracelets, 3-5/8" by 3-1/8".   View   View   View   #V29919 VICTORIAN Whitby jet snake bracelet, hand carved head and tail and faceted body, shown in Helen Muller's "Jet" page 83, extended bracelet is 14" long and the snake head is 1-1/4" long and 1/2" wide.    View   #V31828


 JET SNAKE bracelets
were always strung on black elastic. People put them on wire nowadays because they don't know how to string them properly but it damages the jet holes. Good jet snakes should have lovely carving with cross-hatched heads and should be tight enough not to fall off your arm, meaning no segments are missing and it is properly strung. Most snake bracelets that are originally wire strung are black glass, not jet, and reproductions are now being made.
 

 

 

 VICTORIAN black glass snake coil bracelet with wire-strung faceted segments, 18" long and about 1/3" wide.    #V32600 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet snake bracelets, matched set, 14" by approximately 1/3" each. Although the Victorians often wore bracelets in matched sets it is VERY rare to find one in jet snakes like this.   View  View   #V32619  

VICTORIAN very unusual textured, black enameled metal segments strung on flat coiled wire snake bracelet with wooden carved head and tail, symbol of infinite love, 9" by 1/2".   View   #V28836 

 

     VICTORIAN Whitby jet snake wrap-around bracelet, 15" long and 5/16" wide. See page 83 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".  Similar piece seen in Helen Mueller's "Jet" on page 83;  in Christie Romero's "Warman's Jewelry, 2nd Ed" page 32 and 3rd edition page 51; and in Becker's "Antique & Twentieth Century Jewelry" on page 54. View   #V26676       VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved segmented snake bracelet. Circa 1870, this bracelet has each segment is faceted by hand, an amazing amount of work especially considering the rough tools that were used to fashion jet over 130 years ago.  #VHM5   VICTORIAN Whitby jet snake bracelet, 16" total, 1/3" wide each segment. Similar piece seen in Helen Mueller's "Jet" on page 83 and in Christie Romero's "Warman's Jewelry, 2nd Ed" page 32 and 3rd edition page 51.  #V28553

 

VICTORIAN jet table and chair with etched design of the Whitby Abbey, table 1-1/3" by 1-1/4", chair 2-1/4" by 1", this can be seen in Helen Muller's book "Jet" page 92. These would have been taken home as souvenirs of a visit to Whitby.  #V36460

 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved snake coil bracelet, 11-1/3" long and about 5/8" wide, strung on black elastic in the correct original way. The snake symbolized eternal love in the Victorian era. This exact bracelet can be seen on page 34 of the book "Jet Jewellery" by Katy & Helen Muller. What a piece to add to your collection!  Circa 1870, this bracelet has each segment is faceted by hand, an amazing amount of work especially considering the rough tools that were used to fashion jet over 130 years ago.   View   View   #V36051

VICTORIAN jet expansion bracelet with lightly hand etched wild rose flowers and leaves design, circa 1880, 6-5/8" relaxed size with a 1-1/3" wide front and a 3/4" back.  View   #V38231

 

 

  VICTORIAN Whitby jet strung on elastic bracelets, matching pair, tiny dings, 7" adjustable by 1-1/4".  View   View   #V28790

    VICTORIAN Whitby jet chunky cube bracelet with 1-1/4" squares strung on black elastic. Each square is faceted and the edges etched with a Greek key design, and on top center is a faceted half-bead with and faceted smaller squares on the other links.   View   #V29813

VICTORIAN bois durci bracelet with carved ivory deer in the woods inset. One deer has a leg missing, but it is not noticeable except under a loupe. Bois Durci was invented in France in mid 19th century, and this is marked on the back "D&C Patent", 6-3/4" by 2-1/3" at front and 3/4" at back.   View   View   View   View   #V32417

 

 VICTORIAN Whitby jet cameo bracelet, 6" with 1-1/2" front and 1" back.   View   #V32578       VICTORIAN vulcanite cameo bangle, cameo 1-1/2" by 2".  View   #V28068     VICTORIAN vulcanite bangle, very rare and unusual cameo 2-1/4" front with beaded edge 1" back, hinged side.   View   View   View   #V29155

 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet bracelet, one link chipped, 7-1/4" by 1-5/8".  View   #V29884

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved cameo bracelet strung on two strands of hat elastic. The back segments are polished convex rounds, and the front segment is a beautifully carved lady with head dress profile. Relaxed size is 6-3/4" with front cameo panel 1-1/3" wide and back panels graduated from 1" down to 3/4".      View   View   #V31810

VICTORIAN vulcanite floral bangle with flowers, adjustable with 2-1/4" front.  View   #V28208

 

    VICTORIAN jet bracelet with pierced and carved front, a lovely design with rectangular sides, elastic strung and 7" by 1-1/2" relaxed.    View   View   #V32699     BLACK French jet beads brooch on a white lace collar.  VICTORIAN vulcanite horseshoe bracelet, double hinged at the sides and adjustable to sizes 6-3/8", 6-3/4" and 7-1/8", 1-1/4" wide at front.  View   View   #V31335   

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite bracelet with roses in the center surrounded by branches and leaves, front 1-3/4" by 1-1/2", adjustable with 1" band.    View   #V33358 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet expansion bracelet with star motif, 7" with 1-5/8" at front and 1/2" band.   View   View   #V32447

VICTORIAN Whitby jet cameo bracelet, a segmented band strung on elastic as they were in that era circa 1870, relaxed size 7-1/2", front cameo 1-1/3" and back segment 7/8". All the parts are original as as it was first made over 140 years ago.   View   View   #V65830

 


  JET is the black fossilized wood of a particular tree that grew millions of years ago. It is particularly associated with the English town of Whitby where much of it was mined and fashioned into jewelry and accessories. While jet was made into jewelry throughout the 1800's, it was especially fashionable between 1860 and 1890. Like amber, coral, pearls and ivory, jet is an organic gem.

VULCANITE (also sometimes called "ebonite") was made by combining and heating sap of the Euphorbia or Ficus trees from Malaysia with sulphur. Invented in 1843 by Thomas Hancock, pieces made of vulcanite were almost always molded, not carved, and it was used mainly in making jewelry.

HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry.

BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland. It is a brownish-black, and has a woody texture.

FRENCH JET and CREPE STONE are black glass, and not truly jet at all. Like all glass, they will be colder to the touch and heavier than jet or vulcanite. They are usually smaller sized pieces backed with black metal in the same size.

BOIS DURCI was invented by Francois Charles Lepag in 1856. It is a composition of fine hardwood sawdust and blood which is pressed then highly polished.

GUTTA PERCHA is the sap of the Dichopsis tree also found in Malaysia. Invented by William Montgomerie in 1843, it was used mainly in technical articles, e.g. driving belts, stoppers, tubs, pails, cups, washing drums and cables. It was also used for household purposes such as mouthpieces for whistles, sticks and riding whips. It was very rarely used for jewelry.


Pieces like these, circa 1860-1890, can be seen in Helen Muller's book Jet and in Christie Romero's Warman's Jewelry, Ed. 3 on pages 51 and 52.

 

 

   VICTORIAN vulcanite bracelet with 1-3/4" by 1-1/3" oval floral and fruit front, 1-1/4" band, adjustable.   View   View   #V27897

  VICTORIAN vulcanite wrap bracelet with birds , 2" front. View #V26085 

    VICTORIAN vulcanite cherries bracelet, 1" to 1-7/8" wide with 1-7/8" by 1-1/3" front oval.   View   View     #V27697

 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet bracelet with lily-of-the-valley carved 1-1/4" oval front motif, 6".   View  #V25882

           VICTORIAN Whitby jet bracelet with engraved flowers, strung on elastic so it fits 6-1/2" to 7" arm and is 1-3/4" wide at front.   #V26451

   VICTORIAN Whitby jet expansion bracelet, 6-1/2" by 1-1/3".  View   #V25410

 

     VICTORIAN lady wearing a cross on a black ribbon, black earrings and a vulcanite bracelet with a cameo. She leans on a prayer chair. Carte de viste marked "Negretti & Zambra, Crystal Palace, Sydenham" along with information on ordering portrait enlargements.  

    VICTORIAN lady wearing parure of a jet necklace, bracelet and earrings. Carte de viste marked "Silas Eastham, Photographer, 217 Lord Street, Southport".   View   View 

   VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite hand brooch on her lacy scarf and faceted jet bracelet on her arm. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/8", marked W.J. Wellsted & Son, 19 & 20 Paragon St, Hull on both front and back, and "Photographers of the Prince & Princess of Wales" along with "Copies can be had at any time or an enlargement finished in oil or watercolors" on the back. Back also has a birds and bamboo design. Backing is a light mustard yellow color.  View

 

VICTORIAN jet square etched design center and faceted links strung on elastic bracelet, 6-1/3" when relaxed by 1" wide.   View   View   View   #V29468 VICTORIAN jet oblong etched design center and faceted links strung on elastic bracelet, 6-1/2" when relaxed by 1-1/2" wide.   View   View   #V29465   VICTORIAN vulcanite band bracelet, 6-1/2" around relaxed and 1-3/4" wide at front.   View   #V29812 

 

VICTORIAN jet faceted bracelet, 6-1/4" to 7" wrist, 1-1/2" wide.   #V28551

   VICTORIAN jet faceted 2-1/8" by 5/8" links and 1/4" beads strung on elastic bracelet, size 6-5/8" when relaxed.   #V29760

VICTORIAN jet wide heavy faceted bracelet, 2" wide.   View   #V29464

 

  
VICTORIAN vulcanite expansion bracelet, 7" by 1-1/4".   View   #V27245    VICTORIAN Whitby jet expansion bracelet with alternating hand carved and smooth links circa 1870. The carved links have a starburst center and geometrics designs. The bracelet is 6-1/4" inside when relaxed and 1-1/2" wide, but it stretches to fit a 6-3/4" wrist comfortably.  #V38816 VICTORIAN jet wide faceted links strung on elastic bracelet, 5-1/2" around when not stretched by 1/2" wide.    #V29252

 

   

VICTORIAN jet cross hatch carved ring circa 1870, a large ring at size at 9 and 1/4" wide. Jet is brittle and very difficult to carve so a little ring like this must have been very challenging to make.  View   #V37674

VICTORIAN jet carved ring size 9, original box included.   View   #V26677

 

 


  There are several materials used to make this black jewelry and they can be very difficult to distinguish between: jet, bog oak, horn and vulcanite. Jet was hand carved, while the other materials were pressed or molded.

IDENTIFICATION: Jet brooches will have an applied pin back like this
PIN BACK and this PIN BACK.  An inset back like this PIN BACK would indicate that the piece is vulcanite or another black material, not jet.
Jet chains have links with two duplicate pieces which are pegged and then glued together. Vulcanite links are all one piece with a slit in one end to insert the next link. This can be done because vulcanite is malleable, unlike jet which is brittle.
Jet lockets are smooth inside while vulcanite lockets are textured with a design inside:  Vulcanite locket

Signed pieces are very hard to find, and when found they are usually extremely well-carved. The jet workers only signed their very best pieces and these pieces were often carved for a competition.

For information on identifying these materials, see the book "JET" by Helen Muller.
 

 

       

   

   

    VICTORIAN jet carved lily-of-the-valley bracelet, 6-3/4" by 1/2" to 7/8".    #V28059 

VICTORIAN jet bracelet of faceted links and a center clear rhinestone round disk strung on elastic, 6-1/4" relaxed by 1" at widest.  View   #V31330

  VICTORIAN jet bracelet with carved flower center, 6-5/8" relaxed by 3/4" wide, front piece is 1-1/2" by 1".   View   #V30054

 

VICTORIAN jet hand carved segments strung on double elastic bracelet, 7" by 3/4".   #V29904 VICTORIAN jet squares strung on elastic bracelet with alternating faceted and carved links, 5-1/2" when relaxed by 1/2" wide.   #V29251 VICTORIAN jet bracelet with faceted slightly domed and faceted links strung on elastic, 6-1/2" by 1/2".   #V29135

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite brown bracelet with very three-dimensional wheat motif, 7" by 1-3/4" by 3/4" back. Vulcanite was originally black, and exposure to light has turned it this milk chocolate color over time.  View   #V31882

   VICTORIAN vulcanite bangle with thistle design for Scotland, very unusual, adjustable and fits a +/- 7" wrist, 1-1/2" at front and tapered back to 1".   View   View   #V31129

VICTORIAN vulcanite milk chocolate brown bracelet with very three-dimensional rose bouquet motif, 7" by 1-3/4" by 1" back. Vulcanite was originally black, and exposure to light has turned it this milk chocolate color over time.   View   #V31883

 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet faceted links strung on elastic bracelet, 6-1/2" by 1-1/8".   #V32220

VICTORIAN jet expansion bracelet with compass circa 1870, hand carved geometric design, relaxed size a small 6-1/4" with 1" front and 1/3" back.   View   #V33044

VICTORIAN Whitby jet segmented carved grapes motif bracelet, 7" around inside, 7/8" back and 1-1/2" front.   View   #V32086

 

French jet was another name for the black glass jewelry that was made to imitate jet in Victorian times.
 

   VICTORIAN faceted French jet (black glass) drop pierced earrings, one with a tiny chip at the bottom, 1-3/4".   #V28782     VICTORIAN French jet (black glass) bow brooch with an embossed gold tone hair compartment, 1-1/3" wide.   View   #V28783 VICTORIAN black glass "French jet" unusual barrette.   View   #V23428

 

       

   

   

    VICTORIAN French jet (black glass) pins, 1-1/4", seen in Muller's book "Jet" on page 124.  View   #V29212

  VICTORIAN French jet (black glass) strung on elastic bracelet, 6-3/4" by 1/4". See Helen Muller's book "Jet" on  page 124.   #V29213

   VICTORIAN French jet (black glass) faceted small pin, 1-5/8", see Muller Jet, page 124.   View   #V29216   

 

For more information about JET and other Victorian black jewelry we recommend the excellent book 'Jet' by Helen Muller and "Whitby Jet" by Katy & Helen Muller.

 

 

"Jet" by Helen Muller

Helen Muller

 
 

 Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry                 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE
.

                       

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PLEASE NOTE: Regretfully, it is no longer possible to respond to individual questions regarding jewelry history, identification or value, or to offer written or verbal appraisals or opinions. The demand for this kind of information is absolutely too overwhelming for one dealer to fill. 
I love jewelry, but appraising and selling are two entirely different businesses, and I choose selling and research as my business.

Instead, articles are added on a regular basis to JEWEL CHAT on line Magazine, a wonderful reference for  information on many makers and styles of vintage jewelry. 
For information on valuing your jewelry, click HERE.