Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
at the

ANTIQUE CONNECTION MALL
and on the internet since 1996
12815 Central NE, Albuquerque, New Mexico, 87123  USA
~
Jane Haley Clarke, owner
Copyright 1994-2017 All rights Reserv
ed ©

 


Welcome to the beauty, history and art that is vintage jewelry. We buy and sell vintage rhinestone, costume, designer, bakelite and antique Georgian & Victorian jewelry, purses and accessories.
To be alerted when NEW ITEMS are added to the site, please e-mail jane@morninggloryantiques.com and we will be glad to add you to the contact list.
All jewelry is in excellent vintage condition unless specified otherwise.  All items are subject to prior sale.
We work constantly to offer extensive jewelry research, pictures and information in our reference, " Jewel Chat " and gallery " Morning Glory Collects ". 
We share our reference material free of charge and work hard to make it accurate, but as with any research, mistakes can be made. We are not responsible for the use you make of the information here or the honest mistakes that may occur from time to time.
We do not offer identification, valuation or appraisal services. 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. Most of these items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE
.

© 1994-2017 All Rights Reserved

 

 

Morning Glory Collects...
things we love to buy, wear and share

Victorian Jet Necklaces,
Lockets, Watch chains, Crosses & Pendants
 

 


  During part of the Victorian period from about 1860 to 1890 black jewelry was the height of fashion and black was a stylish color, not just an ornament of mourning. Made of jet, vulcanite, bog oak or pressed horn, each could carried special meaning as a memento of a loved one or a sentiment. A brooch in the shape of a hand carrying a bouquet conveyed a message symbolized by the flowers. Photos might be housed inside lockets and watch fobs, and portraits hand painted on pendants and earrings. While some black jewelry was meant to be worn during mourning, black jewelry was fashionable when not in mourning as well, and worn for its beauty and sentiment.

From my dear friend Katy Muller, author of the book "Whitby Jet Jewellery": "Should you wish to find a jewel which will protect you from the evil eye, from serpents and from dogs, go to Whitby, a small fishing village famous for its medieval abbey and Dracula but most famous for its jet manufacture.

Jet is an organic gem, like amber, pearls, coral and ivory.  It is a type of brown coal, a fossilized wood of an ancient tree similar to our present day Araucaria or monkey puzzle tree.  These trees flourished in the Jurassic period about 180 million years ago.  When the trees died they fell into the river and were carried down to the sea.  On their way they collected debris and small creatures and chemical changes altered the wood to jet. Jet is a poor conductor of heat and so feels warm to the touch and there are two types of jet, hard and soft.  There is no doubt that in the minds of Yorkshiremen the best hard jet of all comes from around Whitby, found in the cliffs and on the beaches. This was the jet that was used for the jet jewellery industry.  Mining began in about 1840 and stopped around 1920.  Pieces of jet can still be found washed up on the beaches in Whitby today.

 As a result of the Great Exhibition in London in 1851, jet jewellery from Whitby became highly popular, but it was the death of Prince Albert that boosted the Industry when the courts announced that everyone should follow the mourning dress code of black and "the jewellery shall be jet".  During this period jet workers were to be found all over the town and purpose built jet shops were opening all over Whitby.  The workers were earning good money and working all hours turning out beautiful jet jewellery.

 It was the new rail network to Whitby from Pickering in 1836 that brought Victorian holiday makers to the seaside, thus boosting the jet industry.  No holiday would be complete without a souvenir or gift to bring home, often pieces carved with the Abbey, the large 3rd century St. Hilda's Abbey which still dominates the town today.

 As the century progressed and fashions changed to lighter clothes, fashion in jewellery followed.  Heavy black crinoline dresses were no longer worn so the large bulky black jewellery was no longer required.  The high price of Whitby jet jewellery saw huge amounts of imported stimulants like vulcanite, pressed horn, bois durci at a much cheaper price and mass produced being  more affordable.  Unfortunately today so many of these copies are sold mistakenly for Whitby jet.  

So in a period of just 10 years jet went from high popularity to being shunned and unwanted, something the jet workers could never have foreseen.   Fortunately today jet has regained its popularity as a fashion accessory.

Always try and buy jet from a reputable seller who knows the difference between jet and the imitations." Whitby Jet by Katy Muller

 

 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet carved and graduated beads necklace, circa 1870. Each bead is hand carved and graduated to fashion this lovely necklace. A copy of a carte de visite of a lady wearing a similar three-strand necklace of carved jet beads and a jet brooch shows how it was worn. This necklace was seen in "Antiques & Collecting Magazine" page 49, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet jewellery called Black Magic by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D.  View   View   View   View   View   View   View #V33037
 

 VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing three long strands of jet beads, 2-1/2" by 4". "Artist & Photographer T. Brooks, 24 Coney Street, York".  View   View   #Vkph23

VICTORIAN Whitby jet facet or cant beads, 56" long with faceted graduated beads from 3/4" down to 1/3". A carte de visite shows a lovely lady wearing beads much like this strand. The photo is dated on the back 1871.   View    View   View    #V32623  

 

VICTORIAN lady wearing elaborate jet necklace, a chalcedony brooch and a vulcanite hair comb. Carte de viste marked on front and back "John Fergus, Largs".  View

   VICTORIAN lady wearing jet portrait earrings and a black velvet ribbon with a pendant.   View

    VICTORIAN lady wearing elaborate vulcanite drops necklace.   View

 

 
   VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved necklace, very rare geometric design, 18" long and 5" front drop. The detailed hand carving in this is magnificent and it is in all likelihood a one-of-a-kind necklace.   View   View   View   View   View   #V31293 VICTORIAN lady wearing elaborate necklace and earrings set.  View

 
VICTORIAN Whitby jet necklace, hand carved with decorated links and stations, one of a kind, 20-1/2" by 4". This necklace was seen in "Antiques & Collecting Magazine" page 49, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet jewellery called Black Magic by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D.    View   View   View   View   View   View   View   #V29822 

 

 VICTORIAN Whitby jet snake necklace with heart dangle, graduated sized beads, 18" with beads ranging from 1/3" to 2". See a similar version of a snake necklace on page 122 of  Davidov & Dawes "Victorian Jewelry". This necklace was seen in "Antiques & Collecting Magazine" page 49, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet jewellery called Black Magic by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D.    View   View   #V31294 

  VICTORIAN Whitby jet necklace with three teardrop-shaped drops, faceted centers, 16-1/2" by 3-1/4". There is a repair on one link. A copy of a carte de visite shows a lady wearing a necklace like this.  View   View   View   View   #V29820

  VICTORIAN jet Roman style snake necklace with segmented body, 17" long and from 1/2" down to 1/3" wide bead body. The head is 1" by 5/8" and the heart is 5/8". See a snake necklace in Davidov & Dawes "Victorian Jewelry" on page 123.   View   View  #V31839

 

 

 

 

 

 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved necklace with high relief roses and leaves on four of the links. The jet portion is 15" long and the ribbons are 14" each, circa 1870.   View   View   View   #V37736

 

 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved necklace with amazing hand carving, 22" long with drops from 3-3/4" at front to 2-1/2" at sides. Jet in this condition is rare and a wonderful addition to any fine jet collection.   View   View   #V36055

VICTORIAN Whitby jet cameo necklace with double chain, beautifully carved and in excellent condition, the cameo pendant is surrounded with leaves and flowers and each link has a lovely ripple carved design, wearable length 20" front drop 4".  View  #V36318

VICTORIAN spectacular Whitby jet grapes necklace with deep hand carving, excellent condition, 18" long with 4" front drop.   View   View   #V36220

 

  VICTORIAN Whitby jet locket necklace with seed pearl cross and glass back, 2" by 1-5/8" locket on 18" chain with jet faceted beads and black glass long beads.   View   View   #V30053

VICTORIAN jet grapes pin and a black velvet ribbon as a choker. Carte de viste marked "J. H. New, Remsen St., Opposite Parson's Mill, Cohoes, NY".

VICTORIAN jet necklace with 3 drops, 18-1/2" with 2-1/4" front drop. Jet jewelry can be seen in "Jewels & Jewelry" by Clare Phillips on page 95.  View   #V27233

 

 
VICTORIAN jet cherub 1-7/8" by 1-1/2" locket with photo and hair on back suspended on a 20" faceted black glass beads chain. Raphael (Raffaello Sanzio, 1483-1520) was a great, late Renaissance Italian artist. Raphael's Cherub is part of his early 1500s Sistine Chapel murals in the Vatican. Many Victorian pieces were made with this as their inspiration, including this one. A similar piece can be seen on page 167 of Bell's "Collecting Victorian Jewelry".     View   View   #V29917  VICTORIAN jet pendant with hand painted porcelain green Tyrolean boy portrait, 2-1/2" by 1-1/4" pendant on graduated strand of hand carved jet beads 18" necklace.  View   View   View     #V29918 VICTORIAN Whitby jet with plaited hair locket, 1-1/2" by 1-1/3" locket with 1/3" loop, fittings and plaited hair inside.   View   View   #V32221

 

 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet faceted links and drops necklace. Each link and drop was hand carved. This necklace is 19-1/2" long with links of 1" by 1-1/4" down to 5/8" by 7/8" and drops of 7/8" to 1-1/3". Under a loupe, you can see holes near the catch where 2 drops are missing, but as the pictures show, their lack does not detract from the design of the necklace. See similar necklaces in Davidov & Dawes "Victorian Jewelry" book, page 121.  View   #V31838 

VICTORIAN jet collar necklace, 16-1/8" by 3-3/4" front and 1/2" back. The two front sections are both beautifully carved with a flower bouquet design.   View   View   View   View   #V32330

  VICTORIAN Whitby jet large graduated faceted beads strung on black ribbon, 26+ inches long and beads 1" down to 1/4".   View   #V29885

 

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing faceted jet beads necklace and earrings. "A.&G. Taylor Photographers to the Queen, miniature and portrait painters". On the back it also says, "Cartes enlarged to life size and finished in oil or water". We have a family photo that was enlarged to make a portrait this way.   View   #Vkph46

  VICTORIAN Whitby jet carved, or "cut and shaded", and graduated beads necklace, circa 1870. Each bead is hand carved and graduated to fashion this lovely necklace. It will come with a copy of a carte de visite of a lady wearing a three-strand necklace of carved jet beads and a jet brooch, 2-1/2' by 4". "Brown, Barnes, Bell".  View   View   View   View  View   View  View   #V33037

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved pendant with a pietra dura floral inset of daisies, forget-me-nots and green leaves.    #VHM1 

 

WHITBY JET JEWELRY
by KATY MULLER
author of the book "Whitby Jet"

Because my mother Helen was THE jet expert in England, I developed an interest in this wonderful jewelry early in my life. Her book  "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments” came out in 1984 then her larger book "Jet" in 1987.  In 2009  we collaborated on an updated version of Jet Jewellery and Ornaments book called “Whitby Jet”, with some new information and lots of new color pictures.  

Mum knew many of the jet workers in Whitby and her research included interviews with those who were then still living. She even had the opportunity to move a complete Victorian jet work shop and rebuild it where it can be seen today in the York Museum. Between the two of us, we have handled hundreds of pieces of this wonderful jewelry.

The best jet for jewelry was mined in the area around Whitby, England. Jet jewelry has been made for hundreds of years, but it was made most popular starting in the Victorian era after the death of Queen Victoria's beloved husband, Prince Albert in 1861 when the whole country went into mourning. It was not only a sign of mourning, but a fashion statement as well.

The best jet jewelry that is found today is well carved and polished and has all the original fittings.  A couple of small “flea bites” (conchoidal fractures) in jet is not unusual and it shows its authenticity because vulcanite and other simulants do not chip in this way. Unfortunately a lot of jet on offer these days that is made up of odd pieces and beads of jet which are re-made into necklaces, bracelets and earrings. These aren't original or as they should be, and have little value. Buy from a reputable well-informed dealer who knows jet jewelry if you want the real thing.

In general, it is difficult to exactly date any jet piece, but certain motifs were popular in certain decades. The knot motif was most popular in the 1840s for instance, the green gypsy boy on porcelain in 1860s, lockets in the 1870s and larger brooches in the 1870s.  As time went on and fashion changed the smaller pieces were came into vogue.

Good Victorian Jet jewelry is getting harder and harder to find, so if you see something you like buy it while you can!  It will only increases in value. And enjoy wearing a famous piece of Victorian English history!

KATY MULLER

 

 

   VICTORIAN Whitby jet necklace, hand carved oval links with faceted ball drops, graduated oval links, 18" long with the front link and ball 2" long. The two smallest round faceted beads have stable surface cracks. A similar necklace can be seen in Davidov & Dawes "Victorian Jewelry" on page 120.     View   #V33879  

VICTORIAN Whitby jet necklace, hand carved with round links, rectangular carved stations and a lovely huge cross pendant with applied balls, 18" long with the cross pendant 3-1/4". Each rectangular station also has a carved design and saw tooth edges, wonderful detail.     View   View   #V33878

VICTORIAN Whitby jet faceted graduated ovals collar necklace with ribbon ties, 14" with 1-1/3" down to 7/8" wide, two slight chips are visible only from the back. A similar necklace can be seen on the cover of Helen Muller's "Jet Jewellery & Ornaments".   View   View   View   View   #V33619

 

VICTORIAN black faceted glass beads muff or lorgnette chain with Vauxhall glass cross pendant, faceted beads and hook closure, chain 52" long with 1/4" to 1/8" faceted beads, cross 1-3/4".   View   View   #V35107

VICTORIAN Whitby jet 3-strand hand faceted beads necklace, 15-1/2" wearable length with beads from 3/4" down to 3/8". The stations that lead to the single strand top are hand faceted as well. Circa 1870, THIS vintage CDV shows how it would have been worn.   View   View   View   #V35099

Circa 1870, THIS vintage CDV shows how a jet graduated necklace would have been worn.

 

 VICTORIAN jet facet or cant beads double strand necklace, 16-1/2" shorter strand 16-1/2", longer strand 19", faceted beads graduate from 5/8" down to 1/4".   View   View   View   View   #V31772 VICTORIAN lady wearing three-strand jet beads necklace.   View   View   VICTORIAN jet carved with entwined initials "AEI" (Amity, Eternity & Infinity) on the front for eternal love, pendant, 2-2/3". See similar pieces on page 90 of Helen Muller's book "Jet", and in Luthi's Sentimental Jewelry page 27.  View   #V29461

 

   VICTORIAN double strand of jet beads and an ivory cherub brooch worn by Her Royal Highness, The Princess Louise, Marchioness of Lorne (Louise Caroline Alberta, b. 3-18-1848, d. 12-3-1939). She was the 4th of Queen Victoria's daughters.

VICTORIAN jet graduated faceted beads necklace, 26" with 1/4" up to 3/4" beads strung on thread.   View   #V29462

VICTORIAN lady wearing large hoop skirt and jet bead long chain.

 

 

VICTORIAN early French jet necklace and pendant, 18" wearable length with a 2-5/8" Y and a 2" round pendant. So far I have never seen another like this, not as long or with this pendant design.  View   View   View   View   #V37289 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet carved bead necklace, rare and circa 1870, 41" and about 1/3" wide. Every single bead is hand made, and they alternate with scored and plain beads. This is a difficult length to find and one that is versatile to wear  View   #V36380 

VICTORIAN French jet necklace circa 1880s, 15" wearable size and with a front drop of 4-5/8". French jet is really black glass, faceted and fitted onto a metal backing to create a light weight wonder like this.   View   View   View   View   #V37168 

 

VICTORIAN French Jet (black glass) necklace, 16" with a 3-7/8" front drop. French jet is black glass used in the late Victorian era to emulate Whitby jet. It is usually more reflective and the pieces much more delicate than jet.  View   View   View   #V35884
A Victorian French jet necklace was worn by Kathryn Hepburn in a 1947 movie, "Song of Love", shown in this photo.

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved necklace circa 1880, 16-3/4" long with graduated disks from 1-1/8" down to 7/8". Each link is a convex circle with saw tooth edge. Every piece including the closure is all original.    View   #V33965

   VICTORIAN French Jet (black glass) necklace, 13-1/3" by 1-1/4".French jet is black glass used in the late Victorian era to emulate Whitby jet. It is usually more shiny and the pieces much more delicate than jet.  View   View   View   #V35885

 

VICTORIAN pietra dura jet pendant, pendant 1-5/8" by 1-1/4", loop 3/4" tall. The center has a white rose, blue forget-me-nots and green leaves.  View   View   #V36221

 

 

 

  VICTORIAN Whitby jet well carved "AEI" pendant with locket back, pendant 2" by 1-3/4", loop 1". "AEI" stands for "Amity, Eternity, Infinity", speaking of love or friendship that lasts forever. Under magnification you can see two small fleabites at the edge of the ring that holds the photo in place and the photo itself is later-added and from print media, not a vintage one. Flea bites are typical of jet of this age and these are barely noticeable except under magnification and mentioned for accuracy only as they in no way detract from this lovely piece. Jet lockets like this were popular circa 1870. 

This very special piece is from the personal jet collections of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery.  I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections.  It is guaranteed to be genuine and all original Victorian Whitby jet.  Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the subject.  View  #V36477

VICTORIAN Whitby jet pendant with etched "IMO" (In Memory Of") on the front, total 2-7/8" by 1-1/2". This lovely pendant is beautifully hand carved circa 1880 and would have been worn on a black velvet ribbon.  View   #V33620 

 

 

 

 

 

 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet tiny delicate carved long chain of beads necklace, each intricately hand carved and looking like a tiny rose, incredible and very rare, 54” with 1/4" beads, all strung on the original black cord. There is one broken bead near the closure but otherwise this is in almost perfect condition.

This very special piece is from the personal jet collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed to be genuine and all original Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the subject.  View   #V36505

VICTORIAN Whitby jet faceted or cant beads, 56" long with faceted graduated beads from 3/4" down to 1/3". This picture of a carte de visite showing a lovely lady wearing beads similar to this strand shows how they were worn.   View    View   View    #V32623




 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet locket with gold and pearl encircled cross motif, all fittings for photos on both sides inside, 1-3/4" by 1-1/3", loop 3/4" and locket 1/3" thick. This exact locket is shown in Muller's book "Whitby Jet" on page 25 where it says this would have been worn in the last 6 months of mourning. Jet lockets like this were popular circa 1870 and this is a very special piece. 

This very special piece is from the jet personal collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed to be genuine and all original Victorian Whitby jet.  Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the subject.   View   View   #V36457  

 

VICTORIAN Whitby jet double chain cameo locket and collar necklace with three spacers and a hanging cameo locket pendant, chain 19” wearable length, cameo pendant 2", with a centre larger cameo and two either side facing each other as they should. This has very slight fleabites on the cameo back. Flea bites are typical of jet of this age and these are barely noticeable, just mentioned for accuracy. The pendant, original clasp and chain are all original and were originally made to go together.

This very special piece is from the personal collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery.  I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections.  It is guaranteed to be genuine and all original Victorian Whitby jet.  Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet", are the best books written on the subject.  View   #V36471

  VICTORIAN Whitby jet collar with three matching cameos, a centre larger cameo and two facing cameo facing it, and smooth graduated ovals finishing up the necklace. This closes with ribbon ties making it wearable at different lengths. The jet portion is 13-3/4" long, ribbons 13" on each side, graduating ovals from 1-1/3" wide on the front cameo to 5/8" at the ends.

This very special piece is from the personal jet collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery.  I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections.  It is guaranteed to be genuine and all original Victorian Whitby jet.  Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the subject.   View   #V36500

   VICTORIAN Whitby jet chain with jet cross with original clasp, 18" long with links from 3/4" down to 5/8", cross 2-1/4”. Note that this rare chain is jet, not vulcanite, and what amazing workmanship! The cross has small fleabites at some edges, but the chain is as near perfect as can be on an item this age. Flea bites are typical of jet of this age and these are barely noticeable, just mentioned for accuracy.

This very special piece is from the personal jet collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed to be genuine and all original Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the subject.   View   #V36475

 


  There are several materials used to make mourning jewelry, and they can be very difficult to distinguish between: jet, bog oak, horn and vulcanite. Jet was hand carved, while the other materials were pressed or molded.

IDENTIFICATION: Jet brooches will have an applied pin back like this PIN BACK and this PIN BACK.  An inset back like this would indicate that the piece is vulcanite or another black material, not jet:  PIN BACK
Jet chains have links with two duplicate pieces which are pegged and then glued together. Vulcanite links are all one piece with a slit in one end to insert the next link. This can be done because vulcanite is malleable, unlike jet which is brittle.
Jet lockets are smooth inside while vulcanite lockets are textured with a design inside:  Vulcanite locket

Signed pieces are very hard to find, and when found they are usually extremely well-carved. The jet workers only signed their very best pieces and these pieces were sometimes carved for a competition.

For information on identifying these materials, see the book "JET" by Helen Muller.
 

 

VICTORIAN jet worker's tools as shown in Helen Muller's book "Jet". How surprising to see how primitive some of the actual tools were, homemade and well used, sometimes used by more than one generation. The artistry in the best hand carved jet jewelry is amazing.

"Jet" by Helen Muller|

VICTORIAN jet worker's tools as shown in Helen Muller's book "Jet". A shop in Whitby still has an original display very much like this showing a complete workshop and original tools from over 100 years ago.

 

   VICTORIAN jet hand painted praying child teardrop shaped 2-1/4" portrait pendant on 20" fabric ribbon.   View   View   #V28833

  VICTORIAN jet pendant with hand painted lady portrait miniature on porcelain, circa 1870, 2". This was used in "Antiques & Collecting Magazine" page 52, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet jewellery called Black Magic by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D.      View   #V25926 

    VICTORIAN 2-1/4" portrait pendant with 1/3" loop, circa 1870.   View   #V28555

 

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite Bacchante cameo locket of a lovely lady with grapes and leaves in her hair. Inside are fittings for one photo with cover. This was made circa 1880s. It is 1-1/3" by 1-1/8" with a 5/16" loop and was often worn back then on a black satin ribbon tied at the back of the neck. .  View   View   #V37486

VICTORIAN Whitby jet beads pendant with hand painted porcelain green Tyrolean boy portrait circa 1860, 2-1/2" by 1-1/4" pendant on graduated strand of beautifully hand carved jet beads 18" necklace. It is amazing to look at these beads and realize they were made by hand with simple tools, one at a time. What workmanship!  View   View   View     #V29918

VICTORIAN jet compass pendant necklace with faceted jet black glass beads circa 1870, 22-1/2" wearable length and 1-1/2" pendant. The compass works and the tint faceted glass beads have a later added catch for security.  View   View   View   #V37709 

 

   VICTORIAN jet with hand painted Tyrolean boy portrait 2-5/8" pendant with saw-tooth edges.   View   #V29450

    VICTORIAN jet 2" pendant with hand painted porcelain boy center, 28" black lace ribbon. A similar piece can be seen on page 177 of Bell's "Collecting Victorian Jewelry".    View   #V29466 

VICTORIAN jet with portrait miniature on porcelain pierced earrings, circa 1870, 2". See Bell's "Collecting Victorian Jewelry" page 192.  View   View   View   #V27912   

 

VICTORIAN jet teardrop pendant with transfer and hand detailed Gypsy boy portrait, one tiny flea bite visible only from back, 2" with 3/4" loop.   View   View   #V31804

VICTORIAN Whitby jet and porcelain pendant, lovely lady holding a dove, 1-3/4" by 1-1/3" on a 24" ribbon.   View   #V32218 

VICTORIAN jet and gold "IMO" (In Memory Of") locket with photo compartment on back, 1-5/8" with 7/8" loop.   View   #V31803

 

VICTORIAN young lady wearing a lovely porcelain portrait set in jet pendant.

VICTORIAN jet pendant with hand painted porcelain child wearing a fancy cap portrait, 1-1/2".   View   #V29279

  VICTORIAN lady wearing matching jet cross pendant and earrings and a black neck ribbon. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/4", marked on the back "Ulke Bros., No 1111 Penn. Avenue, Washington, DC, 1872" and hand written in ink "Julia, with love Judith". 
One photo expert contacted me wondering if this CDV might have been a gift to U.S. Grant's wife, Julia, as the Ulke Brothers were well known as photographers of the politically famous in Washington DC, and 1872 was the beginning of Grant's 2nd term as President. I would love to know who she is.

 

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a jet brooch and earrings and a vulcanite locket on chain, 2-1/2" by 4". "E. Le Jeune Photographe, Naples".  View   View   #Vkph22    VICTORIAN jet engraved cross with flowers locket with faceted edge, photo compartment on reverse, 2-1/2" total length.   View   #V29222  VICTORIAN "IMO" (IN Memory Of) jet locket with initials IMO on the front and room for two photos inside, with fittings for both but glass for only one, 1-7/8" by 1-1/2", leather thong that it came on 21". These were often worn on a plain black ribbon, too. There are tiny flea bites on the edges of the inside of the locket and scratches you would expect with age on the outside, but none detract in being able to wear and enjoy this wonderful piece. The hinge snaps shut firmly and stays shut when worn.  View   View   View   #V38942

 

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing faceted jet beads necklace and earrings. "A.&G. Taylor Photographers to the Queen".   View   #Vkph46

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a locket on a black ribbon, two strands of faceted jet beads, a sea shell brooch, ring and earrings, 2-1/2" by 4". "Vincent Hatch Artist, Photographer, Miniature Painter, 25 Buxton Road, Huddersfield".    View   View   #Vkph27

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a three-strand necklace of carved jet beads and a jet brooch, 2-1/2' by 4". "Brown, Barnes, Bell".   View   View   #Vkph29

 


  JET is the black fossilized wood of a particular tree that grew millions of years ago. It is particularly associated with the English town of Whitby where much of it was fashioned into jewelry and accessories. Whitby became a tourist destination in the 1840s, and what better souvenir of a seaside vacation that a piece of jet jewelry? While jet was made into jewelry throughout the 1800's, it was especially fashionable between 1860 and 1890 after Prince Albert, Queen Victoria's beloved husband, passed away. She made it the most popular jewelry of mourning. Like amber, it will pick up paper when static is created by rubbing it on wool or silk.

VULCANITE (also trade named "Ebonite") was made by combining and heating sap of the Euphorbia or Ficus trees from Malaysia with sulphur. Invented in 1843 by Thomas Hancock, pieces made of vulcanite were almost always molded, not carved, and it was used mainly in making jewelry.

HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry.

BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland. It is a brownish-black, and has a woody texture.

FRENCH JET and CREPE STONE are black glass, and not truly jet at all. Like all glass, they will be colder to the touch and heavier than jet or vulcanite. It is usually smaller sized pieces backed with black metal in the same size.

BOIS DURCI was invented by Francois Charles Lepag in 1856. It is a composition of fine hardwood sawdust and blood which is pressed then highly polished.

GUTTA PERCHA is the sap of the Dichopsis tree also found in Malaysia. Invented by William Montgomerie in 1843, it was used mainly in technical articles, e.g. driving belts, stoppers, tubs, pails, cups, washing drums and cables. It was also used for household purposes such as mouthpieces for whistles, sticks and riding whips. It was very rarely used for jewelry.


Pieces like these, circa 1860-1890, can be seen in Helen Muller's book Jet and in Christie Romero's Warman's Jewelry, Ed. 3 on pages 51 and 52.

 

 

    VICTORIAN jet small carved cameo pendant, 2".    #V27666

   VICTORIAN carved jet teardrop shaped cameo pendant, chips on back, 2".   View   #V27896

VICTORIAN jet and vulcanite carved cameo 1".  #V27661

 

  VICTORIAN jet faceted locket, 1-3/4" on a 7/8" jet loop. See a similar piece in "Warman's Jewelry, Ed. 3" page 52.   View   #V28197

VICTORIAN jet very unusual ladies jersey pin together with a copy of an 1898 ad from Moore & Evans catalogue, 12".   View   Ad   #V27234   

VICTORIAN lady wearing faceted jet beads.

 

     VICTORIAN jet long strand of faceted small beads - rare and very nice!   View    #V28062

  VICTORIAN black beads and jet brooch.

   VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved and polished graduated bead necklace, 19-1/2". Every other bead is intricately carved in a stylized rose design. Push pin and barrel closure and what looks like the original stringing, which has stretched a bit with age. The carved beads range from 1/3" up to 5/8", and the smooth beads from 1/8" to 1/2.   View   #V28805

 

VICTORIAN Labrodite and silver cross pendant on a 52" long black glass faceted bead necklace, cross 2-1/8" by 1-3/4", ribbon 28". A rock hound friend of mine identified the cross as Labrodite or I would have thought this was all glass.    View    #V34581/36375 FRENCH jet black faceted glass beads necklace, 52".  View   #V36375

 

VICTORIAN dyed black wooden beads, knotted between each bead, silver hook closure, 52".  View   #V28416    where?

 

VICTORIAN lady wearing carved jet beads necklace and earrings and a widow's cap.

   VICTORIAN jet carved graduated beads, 16". Beads are graduated in size from 1/4" to 1".   View   #V28196

   VICTORIAN lady wearing a mourning necklace, brooch and earrings. 

 

     VICTORIAN jet cross carved with acorns and leaves, 3-1/2" on a 22" velvet ribbon.   View   View   #V27653 

    VICTORIAN jet Caedmon 2-1/2" cross on 1-1/3" ammonite ("snake stone") stand.   View   #V27658

  VICTORIAN jet cross on cross with "IHS" pendant, 3".   #V27698 

 

    VICTORIAN jet pendant with etched cross and wreath on one side and cross and hair compartment with blond hair on the reverse, 1-7/8".  View   #V27259

    VICTORIAN jet and banded agate cross, as is with small chip on front (see picture), 3-1/8" by 1-7/8".   View   View   #V27207

     VICTORIAN jet small cross pendant, 1-7/8".  #V28199

 

 

VICTORIAN Whitby silver souvenir napkin ring with blue enameled shield, 1-5/8" across by 1" wide.    View   #V31592

WHITBY EPNS (electro-plated nickel silver) souvenir chrome plated lobster eating implement with red and blue enameled Whitby emblem, circa 1930, 7-1/2".   View   View   #a31806

 

For more information about JET and other Victorian black jewelry we recommend the excellent book 'Jet' by Helen Muller and "Whitby Jet" by Katy & Helen Muller.


 

"Jet" by Helen Muller

Helen Muller

 

Whitby Abbey WHITBY, North Yorkshire,
NE coast of England
River Esk, Whitby

 

Bay Town Cobbled Alley
To Whitby Museum sign. Whitby cobblestone path and shops  



 

 Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry                 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
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